are you still in tortola? do you have the diesel heater option?
--- In email@example.com, amelliahona <no_reply@y...>
Jan 24, 2004
Sorry to be so slow to answer: I am a new (and first time boat
although I am a FAA certified aircraft mechanic and am used to
turning a wrench or two). We have had our Amel SM Hull #335 since
July 2003. Our first haul out was at the 1 & 1/2 year mark,
been in Caribbean waters for about 9 months. The bottom was in
shape but because I wasn't sure how long to expect it to stay that
way we did the bottom paint. Amel recommends a hard bottom paint
(thus I believe this is a non-ablative type paint that you must
periodically). In checking with multiple sources the concensis
that if you sail alot then an ablative paint works well because
motion stirs things up and provides exposure of new paint. If you
don't sail a great deal (me, only about 4 months a year) then the
hard paint is better but must be periodically scrubbed. I chose
Petit Trinidad SR (a hard Slime Retardant paint) based on
with various yards in the Caribbean. It took 5 gallons to put 2
coats on everything and a third coat at the water line down about
inches (This is reportedly what the Moorings boats do). The paint
was about $155 USD in Grenada where I had it done. All they did
scuff sand the existing paint to provide tooth adhesion and put
new paint on with a roller. It has held up well for 14 months now
and I did one scrubbing using 3M pads and two scuba tanks of air
(about a 5 hour job). At our haul out for the hurricane season
bottom looked great. It is evidently imparative not to put a hard
paint over an ablative paint. I am told that it will flake off.
I have replaced the zincs twice. We are only in marinas hooked to
shore power for brief periods and when the zincs are about 50%
replaced them. Joel tells me that they may go in a few months or
last a year or more based on where the boat is and various marina
power scenarios etc. I guess I am about average at 15 months per
I just changed the seals and the bronze prop shaft bushing with
400 hrs on the engine. There was no evidence of oil leakage at the
prop shaft. The oil was clean and there was very little wear on
bushing. I suspect they would have easily gone to 1000 hours.
The procedure for changing the seals and busing isn't documented
anywhere so I thought I might tell you about my experience. I
purchased new "O" rings based on the drawing from Amel but my boat
has the rope cutter insalled and the "O" rings on the drain plug
a different size than depicted on the plain drain plug drawing.
chandlery in Nanny Cay had the correct size "O" ring. I don't
what size "O" ring I ended up with but it would be worth checking
with Amel for the correct size for you application. The "0" rings
the bushing were supplied on mine spare from Amel. Exactly 8.5
liters of very clean oil drained from the drive and I used a
to get all that I could out of the bottom of the drive as
by Amel. I used some penetrant oil the night before on all the
screws that hold the rope cutter in place and they all cam out
easily. The various spacers and cutter came off the shaft and the
bushing slid out very nicely. This left the three seals in
There may be various ways to remove the seals but what we did is
drilled two small holes on each side of the seal, screwed a sheet
metal screw into the two holes and used a slide hammer connected
the screws to pull the seal out. Then we drilled two more holes
the next seal and repeated this process two more times. The seals
came out easily using this method. Prying etc would have been a
bigger chore. Some people collapse the seals with a punch but I
afraid this might damage the prop shaft. The new seals slid in
were tapped into place using an appropriately size piece of pipe
about 14 inches long. I will measure this next time I am on the
and post the dimensions because the size must be quite exact to
the seal and it must be long enough to extend beyond the end of
prop shaft. Anyone doing this job themselves might want to put
together a tool kit that included this pipe (seal driver). Once
seals are in place the bushing was inserted and pushed in so that
most aft portion is flush with the drive housing. Then all the
stuff (cutter and spacers, prop etc) were re-assembled and the
was filled with 8.5 liters of 15/40 Diesel Engine Oil. I used
Lanicote on the prop shaft becuase I understand it will prevent
dissimilar metal corrosion.
When I removed the prop originally (which we did for the Autoprop
recall) we had a very difficult time. We had the Amel prop puller
and actually stretched the bolts to breaking once. All the
and pulling we exerted didn't seem to help. Many folks gathered
around in the yard to offer a host of suggestions but finally what
work almost instantaneously was tapping around the circumference
the prop hub on the forward aspect of the hub. There wasn't a
of corrosion or anything else holding the prop in place, just a
tight tapered shaft and Woodruff key.
I just had the fresh water pump fail. Fortunately I had a spare
promptly installed it. Upon disassembly of the original pump I
the pump housing, bronze impeller and motor shaft all pristine. A
plain steel Woodruff key was used by the manufacturer and it was
completely corroded away so that the impeller just spun on the
shaft. I have tried un-successfully to find stainless steel or
bronze Woodruff Keys. I am going to manufature my own from
steel. Seems odd though that they would put a mild steel key in a
pump like this.
I have changed the finger zinc in the Onan genset once and it was
about 50% gone. I was able to obtain several more from my local
dealer here in the US.
I have ordered the water heater zincs from West Marine who had to
order them from Plastimo. It has been six weeks and I am still
waiting. West Marine/Plastimo wanted about $50.00 each for them.
didn't price them from Amel because the one I originally bought
Amel was the incorrect size. I only discovered that after the
job of opening the water heater.
One other job that is important as far as preventive maintenance
winch overhauls. I ordered the book from Lewmar and an overhaul
kit. Mostly you need the Lewmar grease, some plastic buckets to
to soak and scrub the various parts in some mineral spirits, a
bristled brush to help wash with and a few small brushes to apply
grease with. All of our winches were in great shape after 1.5
including a trans-atlantic. Lewmar says they should be overhauled
times per season. If you did that with 11 winches you would spend
your entire season overhauling winches. It took me about 1 to 2
hours per winch to overhaul them based on the size of the winch.
is fairly straight forward (just remember for sure how you took
apart). The only winches that showed any signs of distress were
those on the main mast since they have so much greater sea water
exposure. I will plan to do them twice per year from now on. The
others will do nicely being done once a year based on my use.
I haven't yet tackled the bow thruster work. If there is anybody
there that could give details of the process it would be greatly
Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Sea Cow Bay, Tortola
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Stephan Regulinski"
We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can
advise on basic bottom paint stuff?
1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?
2. How many coats are applied?
3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?
4. What surface prep is required?
Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is
done, not what the local guy thinks!the
I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change
seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am
missing anything important?
Thanks for your help,
Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)