seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>

The rust is normal and of little consequence. The hydraulic pump inside the gearbox creates the pressure to open the brake pads when the engine is running. Therefore if you have no hydraulic pressure the brake pads will remain closed and firmly attached to the brake disk. Both brake pads should be closed against the disk when the engine is stopped or as now when you have no pressure if they are wearing unevenly
it is because the round cylinder that you can see that controls the pads is out of alignment and can easily be straightened by packing a piece of rubber between the cylinder and the angle iron frame it is mounted on.
If your pads are worn unevenly now is a good time to take them to a brake shop and they will reline the pads. Be careful when removing them as there is a little spring which will drop out.
I checked my Paypal account $ 3355.30 including a clutch plate which is around $100 and hoses , fittings etc.
When removing the gearbox it would be a good idea to replace the rubber bushes in the Vetus coupler and you will probably need a puller to get the flange off the drive shaft. In my case I made one out of a scrap piece of 12mm steel plate and put a socket between the shaft and the plate and tightened it up and eventually the flange surrendered.

--- In, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Hi All

Just re-read Bill's comment and had another look at the Autoprop shaft
brake a short while ago. Interestingly when the engine is off the brake
caliper on the one side only, (ie. closest to the engine) remains presses
against the flywheel disc. Is this normal? When should the brake calipers
be presses against the wheel and when should they be pulled away from it?
Perhaps this was causing the problem however I am not sure how it could do
so other than straining (& hence overheating) the gearbox if it had
remained clamped on the flywheel disc? Any experiences/comments about this
would be greatly valued?

Also looking at the shaft brake system I am getting slight surface
rust/dust on it. Is there a good product I should be using to clean and
keep it rust free?

Fair winds

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - sm2k # 332

On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 2:38 PM, Colin Streeter

Dear Joel, Bill, Trevor, Kent and All

Thank you all once again for the swift assistance and incredibly helpful
advice at such a critical time for us all on board. This group is simply
amazing and a huge comfort.

Based on the fact that we have a 3 week wait for a lift onto the hard
stand and for mechanical assistance, and on reading earlier postings we
decided to engage FWD gear and run slowly into our marina berth without
taking it out of gear at all (since we previously found it would not
re-engage gear once the gearbox had warmed up). Thankfully the gears held
for the 15min slow run in and with the aid of the bow thruster and wind
direction we were able to dock safely without using reverse gear and so she
is safely home.

In terms of all your advice I am now pretty sure we have the following two

1) I think* Joel* is absolutely spot on with the tip that the shaft
bearings/seals have possibly failed and that sea water has recently got
into the drive and that this had pushed up through the oil filler cap. I
will follow Joel's instructions precisely as well as an earlier posting by
Gary Silver and others about how best to remove and replace the bearings.
We will flush it with benzine and use a white filter cloth to check that
nothing other than oil comes out. I am pretty sure this will be fine
afterwards as this is a new problem as of yesterday only and we have hardly
motored at all in the past 6 months.

2) I feel *Trevor's* advice is exactly the problem with the ZF Hurth HSW
250H gearbox. We checked the oil as Trevor suggested and the colour is
milky brown plus the level when cold is well above the high marker when
measured. Furthermore when cold the gears engage, and when warm.....nothing
other than the noise of trying to engage in FWD or Reverse. Clearly the
gasket has failed and cooling water has recently entered the gear oil

Our plan of action is to firstly have the gearbox removed and hopefully
reconditioned by ZF here in Australia, then once re-fitted drive her around
to the hardstand crane to lift out and replace the shaft bearings.
Fortunately the gear box issue is new as I checked the gearbox oil about 1
month ago and it was the same colour red ATF oil as we put in at last
service. Also I am hopeful of no damage to the shaft/Amel Drive since we
have hardly used the engine as we always motor for only about 5 mins only
before setting sail here in Brisbane.

Thanks again to all for the incredible assistance.

Kind regards

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #322

On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 5:35 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>wrote:


Hi Colin,
Have you checked the ATF in your gear box? If so what colour is it? You
need to take the level when the yellow dipstick is unscrewed and gently
resting on the gearbox casing.
If you are having gear selection problems due to not enough fluid ,or sea
water ingress into the gearbox due to the ATF cooler failing, you will be
able to engage gear when the gearbox is cool but you will hear the wet
clutches make a noise similar to something caught around the prop when the
gearbox is too hot. You will get propulsion for a while then nothing except
Another wild guess have you checked to ensure that the bolts on the Vetus
coupler are intact?
I hope this will be of some help.
Good luck.
Sm 425

--- In, Kent Robertson <karkauai@>

Hi Colin.
I think I'm the only other Amel owner to have a failure between the
transmission and the CDrive. The drive shaft between the transmission and
the first 90 degree gear broke where it stepped down in size. I had a
machine shop in Puerto Rico repair the shaft for a fraction of what new
parts from Amel would cost. There are some pics on the photos section under
Kristy SM243 folder and if you search messages for "broken C Drive" you'll
find a lengthy thread about it.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you have other questions?
Brunswick GA USA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 24, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>

Hi Joel

Thank you for this excellent advice which makes perfect sense to me.
I will follow your suggestions here.

In terms of the 2nd problem I feel it is your latter version but
cannot be sure as could not dive in this water to check on the prop
rotation. The auto prop is in good condition so I feel it was the shaft not

Lastly do I need to order specialist prop shaft bearings and seals
from Amel or are these generic products that I could purchase from a local
bearings dealer? Would greatly appreciate the specs &/ or part numbers /
sizes for these.

Best regards

Sent from my iPhone

On 24/07/2013, at 9:58 PM, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@> wrote:

Hello Colin.

It would appear that you have at least two problems. Your prop
shaft seals
have failed and saltwater has entered the drive system. The
saltwater has
emulsified the oil inside and has increased the volume of fluid in
the drive
system. As your reservoir had a small defect that allowed this
fluid volume to escape, that's where the mess came out. Once you
the reservoir, the emulsified mess is now exiting where it came in;
through the shaft seals. Be sure to flush the Amel drive system
with plenty
of kerosene and check what comes out for metal particles by
directing the
exit flow through white cloth that would filter out any solids
before you
replace the shaft seals and refill the unit with oil.

Not sure about your second problem and some clarification is
needed, please.
Are you saying the output shaft from the reduction drive/reverse
gear would
turn but the prop would not 'engage'/move the boat in reverse? Or
is it that
the motor increases in revolutions with application of more power
but the
output shaft from the transmission to the Amel drive does not
rotate while
reverse is engaged? Once this is clear, I will try to figure out
the cause
and a solution.

All the best,

Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@

[] On Behalf Of
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 7:06 AM
Subject: [Amel] HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more
that just
briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours
then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the
cap top was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+
revs to
check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find
no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2
hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is
milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+
years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472 hrs

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or
for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*

*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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