Re: [Amel] Turbo desapointment... Vetus - where to leverage to move engine?

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS

H Alexandre,
To lever to engine away there is a cross beam below the gearbox. Place the end of your lever there, select a solid place on the engine to push against and lever it a little at a time, pulling the engine back into line by hand on the angle iron bearers as you go.
Putting it back there is no natural point to place the lever so get a piece of rope, pass it around one of the engine mount brackets on the engine, then make a loop long enough to reach the steel cross bearer that the C drive is fastenned to. Put your lever through that loop the end of the lever onto the steel cross member and push. You may have to adjust the loop lenth to suit as you go.
As to Parts that you asked about. As I said before you cannot withdraw the old bolts without removing the vetus from the C drive shaft so cut the heads off to get them out. Then any good machine shop or engineering supply firm can supply you with high tensile bolts threaded at each end. Use nylock nuts with washers to ensure they do not work loose. As to the bushes the vetus bushes are hard rubber and I would use nothing else.
They are the same material as leaf spring bushes for motor vehicles. In the Pacific island area I was in I got some spring bushes and cut them to size. But if you are in reach of couriers do a google search to find a Vetus supplier and get them couriered to you. Parts can get half way round the world in a few days. I have found Fedex very expensive but US post cheap and efficient, Likewise DHL. Don't order the bolts though because they will come with heads and you will not be able to fit them.
Don't be nerveous about the job, it really is quite simple.
SM 299 Ocean Pearl

From: Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
To: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
Cc: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, 21 August 2013 2:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Turbo desapointment... Vetus - where to leverage to move engine?


Hello again Danny & Forum,

Sorry to bother you again.
So, I looked at the Vetus flexible coupler and noted some play, so I have to change it.
It doesn't look too complicated, just intimidating I guess for the first time.

Where did you take leverage from?
Which part on the engine did you use to push and which part of the rest did you use to leverage?

Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre

On Tue, 8/20/13, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Turbo desapointment...
To: "Alexandre Uster von Baar" <>
Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 6:21 AM

About two
hours and I did it by myself. Using the lever makes it

Alexandre Uster von Baar <>
To: Danny and
Yvonne SIMMS <>
Tuesday, 20
August 2013 10:59 PM
Subject: Re:
[Amel] Turbo desapointment...

Thanks again Danny, how long did that take you?  Were
you alone to slide the engine? 
Sincerely, Alexandre

On Mon, 8/19/13, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <>

Subject: Re: [Amel] Turbo desapointment...
To: "Alexandre Uster von Baar" <>
Date: Monday, August 19, 2013, 8:30 PM

Alexandre,that about covers it
except in my case two of the bolts securing the vetus were
damaged. It was not possible to withdraw them without
removing the casting from the C drive shaft so I cut the
off with a hack saw and replaced them with bolts with
a nut at each end.That was three years ago and I have had
trouble since. If you do
replace the bolts do not use mild steel bolts, use
tensile bolts which will not stretch under
299 Ocean PearlStill in
Alexandre Uster von Baar <>
Tuesday, 20 August 2013 1:21 PM
  Subject: Re:
[Amel] Turbo desapointment...
Hello Danny,

I think you are right...  even if not worn out,
won't hurt to change them. 

I was reading posts, one said it was like cavitation
I thought it was, but
couldn't be). 

Here is the info you wrote that I found you wrote. 
me know if there is more to

How long did it take you? 

Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre

Replacing the rubber bushes is very straight forward, I
not replace the
circular housing, no need to. However if you did want to
is a more difficult
job which entails removing the keyed connection from the
input shaft to the C
drive. With heat from a gas torch this would probably be
possible but in my case
I was in an island port, the housing was in good order so
just replaced the
rubber bushes.
A straightforward job with no major hidden problems that I
encountered. My
engine is the Volvo TMD 22 and I don't have a shaft
brake or alternator.
The process: Four bolts through the vetus unit ("the
circular box") they are
pinned at one
end so they don't turn. Undo the nuts. To
get the nuts off you may
have to leave the last few threads until the motor is
slightly to make
room. To move the engine. Amel
  have designed a great system. the engine is
bolted to two steel angle iron engine bearers with 4 large
bolts. Remove those
bolts. In my case there were no wires or cables or pipesI
had to remove before I
moved the motor. There was sufficient movement available.
But check carefully.
In my case also there was enough flex in the engine
system that I did
nothing to that either. Anyway check carefully. Then it is
simple process to
just slide the motor aft along those angle iron bearers
untill the vetus unit
separates. From memory no more than 50mm (2 inches) You
see when the vetus
is separated there is a cross (four pins) onto which the
rubber bushes slide.
Remove the old ones
slide on the new. Slide the motor back into place,
the bolts through
the vetus as you go. Start the nuts. Then position the
so the mounting
holes line up, replace the mount bolts and tighten.
The amel system in
  unique in my experience and makes this job so easy.
boats the engine is secured directly to the flexible
mounts so if you
need to move it there is a major problem as the motor
as soon as you move
it off the mounts. Amel, by putting the flexible mounts
under this angle iron
bearer has made moving the motor so easy.
However things to watch for. I used a piece of 50mm x 75mm
(2 x 3 to
americans) about a metre long ( 3 feet) as a lever. Move
engine little by
little watching that it is sliding straight along the
bearer. The four bearer
bolts. Two are quite easy to access. the near side. the
other two you have
lean over the engine to reach them. The aft starboard is
least accessible.
replace it first. Do not tighten any until they are all in
place. I dropped them
in from the top and put the nuts at the bottom. In my case
the holes were not
perfectly positioned so I could get three in easily
  but the fourth bound
slightly in the hole. I left the other three loose and
a large pin punch to
to wriggle in the hole to position it. I didn't fully
tighten the vetus bolts
until the motor was almost back in place but I found it
easier to get the engine
bearer bolts through after I fully tightened the 4 vetus
bolts. Fully tighten
the vetus bolts. Fully
tighten the engine bearer bolts. Check very carefully all
around the engine to
ensure you have not damaged or displaced any thing, which
you won't have done
if you did your pre job inspection well and moved the
Shaft alignment: Not an issue for this job. The engine is
set exactly by the
preset position of the bolt holes in the engine bearers..
my case there was
one, and one only place the motor could sit and once the
bolts were tight that
was it.

Check the bolts through the vetus and the engine bearers
after a few hours
running to
  ensure they remain tight and then for me they are one
of my
room checks I do every day before starting the motor.

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