Re: prop rebuild,..

amelliahona <no_reply@...>

I concur that the rebuild of all three blades is at least a full day project. The spare parts from the manufacturer are indeed very pricy.

I found the key to getting the races out was to use a Dremmel tool cut off wheel (about 3/4 inch diameter) to grind a recess in the hardened steel race being careful not to slip and grind into the race recess etc. The recess (there is a photo I posted on servicing the AutoProp) should be deep enough to accept a punch or chisel. Then use a punch at and angle to start the race rotating in its recess. Add your best penetrating oil (I use Mouse Milk), and in about 30 minutes I was able to extract the race each. The first one I did, without the rotation trick took me about 6 hours with penetrating oil, fine emmory cloth etc. The rotation trick was a big improvement.


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

The prop rebuild is a time consuming project and is best done on a workbench
with a vise.

I bought the parts from AB marine for about $900- they rented me the tools
(cost $350- for 50 dollars-upon return of the tools) I think it will take
one person a day plus to do it.

The hardest part is to remove the ball bearing race as it is held in by
grease and the tolerances are very tight. It takes a lot of time and solvent
to remove them.

Fair Winds


Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 10:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...

Good morning Gary,

If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it is so dirty...
Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I think I should make an effort
and dive far in the bay.

The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know about the last time the
bearing or blade seals were changed.

I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my trip, may be I should do
it before.

I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single) Racor fuel filter. I
don't think, but don't know if I have restriction.
I will check the valve.
I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation? Manufacturer? I am not
familiar with that... Are they permanently mount?

Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I wish I could brag about
2800 rpm!!!

I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you mentionned!

Thanks again for your email, let me know about these suction gauge...
Sincerely, Alexandre

On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@...
<> > wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM


A couple of thoughts:

Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually and
tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is bristol
clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the nasty
water in the marina, and after he said it was clean, I
subsequently inspected it myself and found it was anything
but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on the
prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time to
clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an hour.
Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or equivalent to
get it completely smooth, including the hub area.

While you are down there verify that your prop bearings are
good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just slowly
rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if there
is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they rotate
around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out but
can be done underwater. What you are looking (feeling) for
is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone. They
should be silky smooth as they rotate and should certainly
move freely. On that note, when was the last time the prop
was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were changed,
and when was the last time the blade seals where changed? A
prop blade with bad bearings can give strange vibrations
while powering.

I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when hauled
as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade lip
seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you lube
your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then you
should consider disassembling the prop for bearing

Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a fuel
filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line restriction
such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that the
fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully open.
Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to see if
the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of cheap
and easy things to check.

Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun freely.
There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get from that we use on the waste gate actuators
on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and easy.


Gary Silver

This evaluation won't cost you much in time or money and

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<> ,
"Alex" <uster@> wrote:

Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger and
turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed air

Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt good.
At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher).
Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm... Very

I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any idea?
Could that be the prop not unfolding totally?
Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre
Seabrook, Texas, USA


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