Re: Painting Deck

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>

Regarding the 'Treadmaster' product. If this is laid down with an
adhesive, how well does this work on the faux teak decks of SM's
that have the dark lines slightly below the 'Teak'? Will this lead
to bad adhesion or wavy surface?
I am not considering this yet but maybe in the future.


- In, "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@m...> wrote:
Hi Johen,

Hereby I paste an answer from one of our mates to my questions. I
cannot offer my experience because I still have not applied this


I include my conversation with Joachim for the benefit of all.

Hello Jose_Luis,

regarding the deck there are different ideas to consider. My
decision was:

I am going to put the anti-slip material treadmaster
( on the side walks but
not on the cabin roofs. This was mainly due to optical reasons.
website has also a spanish version.

The pictures are taken from KIRK # 233 which is owned by my best
friend. He put the treadmaster on in 1989. Pictures where taken

I did grind the original anti slip approximately 2/3 down. These
areas will be painted and an anti slip additive ( sand ! ) will be
added to the first layer of 2 component paint. The 2nd layer of
paint will partly cover the sand, that takes out the "bite of the
sand" when you sit on it.. On you will find a
of information probably also in Spanish. VC 17 is a antifouling
paint which creates a very thin layer of paint and dries in a very
short time.

I completed the first sanding with 60 grid last wekend and will do
final sanding with 180 grid to all the original anti slip areas.
other areas wil get a final sanding with 320 grid. Right now the
temperatures are on their way down in northern Germany so it will
take probably another 4 weeks before we get proper outside

In case you have any question please let me - or the forum- know.
own own my KIRK now for 2 years but my best friend owns # 233 now
for 18 years so we have a pretty good knowledge about the older

Next whe will have to replace the old wall coverings hanging down
from the roof also a favorite AMEL item for a replacement.

Enjoy your new boat, the boats might not be good looking but
usability is very high.

Best regards from Hamburg

----- Original Message -----
From: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
To: "Hans-Joachim Schröder"
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding

Hello Joachim,

Thank you for your prompt answer, I was afraid you were not using
anymore this email address.

I am glad you are starting with the deck, because I will have to
it as well sooner or later.

I was wondering how to paint the deck without killing the antislip.

Could you elaborate on how are you going to do it?

I am not familiar with terms like treadmaster and 2k paint, or VC
products. I will check the web link you mention.

This my first owned boat and I think I have a lot to learn.

Vielen Dank


-----Original Message-----
From: "Hans-Joachim Schröder" [mailto:achimschro@w...]
Sent: sábado, 02 de abril de 2005 10:48
To: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
Subject: FW: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding

"Hans-Joachim Schröder" <achimschro@w...> schrieb am 02.04.05

Hello Jose_Luis,

congratulations to the new Amel boat. I hope you will enjoy it as
much we do enjoy the smaller version KIRK # 81 built in 1972.
Welcome to the forum for amel owners.

Sorry for writing in German. . Because I thought this message was
for a german owner I referred to German products. Those are
available in Spain check

I did a complete renovation of a boat which had osmosis . For
sanding down the hull I used a FESTO ROTEX sander which a very
professional tool and fortunately comparatively heavy. In the last
had to sand down the underwater area of my Kirk I used 40 grid
sandpaper and the rotating mode of the machine. I removed the
complete gelcoat and checked the laminate. I should be almost free
of "White Llines" this is where the old polyester doesn't stick to
the glass mat and is therefore o good start for osmosis in the

I my posting i stated that for sanding the bottom you might need
good sanding paper with 120, 180 and 240 for the finish. We have a
very smooth bottom area where we use VC 17 products. This is
we do some club racing and are succesfull with this "old ship".
the deck area you can start with 120 grid and then 240 and 320.
Please keep in mind that preparation incl. sanding, fairing and
stripping off the equipment will take almost 90 % of the total
But after that you should be save for another 15 years.

This year I am renovating the deck area. Because this is the first
time after 33 years. This needs a lot of sanding of the antislip
deck areas. I am planning to cover the walking areas with
treadmaster and paint the upper deck areas with 2k paint. But this
willtake another month because I live in northern Germany where
current outside temparature is now at 6 degrees with a chance of
frost overnight.

If you need any further information please do not hesitate to
contact me. Your German is by far better than my non-exisiting

Good luck and fair winds


--- In, "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@m...> wrote:

Hello Joachim,

Could you please translate into English for me?
I am very interested in your answer aber mein deutsch ist nicht

Vielen dank
Jose_Luis (Spain)

Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant-
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80%
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen


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