Steve Constantine <maramu_49@...>
I too recently purchased an SM2K (#340), and am struggling with winterizing issues. For the hot water heater, I disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses, and temporarily attached a length of hose to the lower one to drain the water into the sump. I then bypassed the heater by joining the cold water inlet hose to the hot water outlet hose. At this point, the entire fresh water system is cold only. I then ran the "pink" antifreeze through the fresh water system by disconnecting the inlet hose from the fresh water pump, and syphoning it directly out of the antifreeze bottle. Don't forget the cockpit shower. The hot water tank just required a small amount to displace what little water didn't get drained.
Incidently, for those of you horrified that we're using antifreeze in our fresh water pipes, propolene glycol (pink stuff) is widely used as a non-toxic antifreeze in the plumbing systems of boats, motorhomes, travel trailers, etc. as a winterizing agent in North America. It's available at every boating supply facility.
The dishwasher, clothes washer, and watermaker were a lot more challenging. I ended up running the clothes washer through a cold water rinse cycle (so the heating element wouldn't turn on). I couldn't figure out how to keep the heater from turning on in the dishwasher, so I just ran it through a complete cycle. It worked, but at the expense of 4 gallons of antifreeze.
On the watermaker (160 litre/hour model), I'm still stuck. This is the first watermaker I've ever seen, so I'm probably missing something obvious. The saltwater intake is straight forward from the seacock to the 25 micron filter (it can be filled with antifreeze). Then from the 5 micron filter through the non-pressurized section of the membranes and overboard is no different than a regular "pickling" with glycerine. My problem, however, is how does one protect the section from the filtered (fresh water side) of the membranes, through the water quality sensor, through the control panel fresh water gauge, and back to the tank? I'd think it would have fresh water pooled at various points in the circuit, which if left there, will freeze and crack something.
Another boater with a watermaker in the same yard, says his watermaker manufacturer recommends winterizing the system by pickling it with pink propolene glycol instead of glycerine. Has anyone heard of this being done on an AMEL Dessalator system without dire results? Are there any other tricks, techniques, or advice anyone has learned?
mike_ondra <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
As the new owners of a 1999 SM 2000 we have enjoyed exploring our
new vessel and the challenges of figuring out the systems.
Winterization generated a number of questions.
We expected to remove the 2 nuts on the wood cover under the sole
board in the galley and be able to access the fresh water tank. We
found simply an indentation in the fiberglas, as if it was intended
to provide an access point, but had not been cut out. What are we
missing? Is/are there access points for cleaning?
The water heater, mounted on an angle with all piping and electrical
connections on the bottom end, seems to lack any high temp/pressure
safety blow-off. Typical? Method of draining and replacement of
anode or failed electric heating element? The magnesium anode is
huge! Does it really need replacement in 3 years?
The manual seems to imply a method to simply drain the fresh water
system back to the keel tank. That certainly would be easy if it
worked. We could not believe that approach would safely drain the
system and so simply added antifreeze to the empty tank and then fed
the entire fresh water system until pink. Again, are we missing out
on an easier way to do this?
Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing
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