Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft bearing
Hi Jan & Judy, and Eric,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I wish to thank all of you,and all the active and less active members of this group, for always very precious supports . Fair winds...buon vento from MED Venezia. Gianni Testa sv EUTIKIA SM2K # 428
----- Original Message -----
From: eric To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 12:43 AM Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft bearing I received this from ian & Judy Jenkins. Fair Winds, Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite HOW TO STRIP DOWN PROPELLER AND STERN GLAND You will need a 24mm spanner or ratchet in addition to usual tools plus the following allen keys 3mm, 4mm, 1/8th and 9/64ths. 1. Undo the 3 nylon bolts holding on the red nose. This reveals the nut secured by an allen key. Round the side of the allen key may need cleaning. The allen key needs quite a lot of pressure to shift it. 2. Once the allen key is removed, the big central nut will also take a lot of pressure to undo. You need a block of wood about 12" square and 2" thick. This rests between one of the prop blades and the horizontal surface of the keel below to keep the shaft still. 3. Having loosened the big nut, but before it is removed, put in place the 3-bolt remover. Each of the 3 bolts goes home. Then put a big spanner on the centre bolt and assist by 'tapping-in' the centre bolt lightly with a hammer. The bolt takes a lot of shifting, about ΒΌ of a turn per effort, tapping also on the shaft between the prop and the prop-cutter (quite hard). 4. When the big bolt turns freely, unscrew the 3-bolt remover, remove the centre nut and the whole prop. 5. Remove the collar and clean off the outside of the cutter blade. 6. Tap out the key on the stainless steel shaft - tap fore and aft and it will come. 7. Undo the allen keys on the cutter. NB at least one of these is a non metric key! ALSO when holding the shaft do so with a rag or glove as the key-housing is very sharp. 8. Loosen the large nut with a V in it - which is below the stainless steel shaft. Before removing it put a wide funnel, hose and container under it. Be prepared for the oil to spurt out. It will take about an hour to drain. It is not necessary to open the oil reservoir inside the boat. 9. Having removed this large nut and drained the oil, dig out the narrow seal (against which the inboard end of the nut rests) with a screw-driver. 10. To put BACK this big nut, check the O ring on it, put silicon on it plus a new seal to replace the seal taken out under 9. Replace the seal on the nut shaft with silicon on the boat-side of the seal. When the nut is tightened up the V should be vertical. 11. To extract the 'wearing out ring' (which I refer to as the bronze bearing), undo the 2 allen keys and use a screwdriver to lever against the allen key or tap out the bronze bearing using a hammer and chisel - the chisel pointing obliquely aft. 12. Once the bronze bearing is out, take a big screw-driver and dig out the 3 rubber seals. 13. With a small blade clean the surface of the in situ (female) part of the bearing. Also with sandpaper clean the aft-part of the internal surface having sealed inboard with some tissue (the seals sit slightly in from the aft edge of the in situ bearing so there can be a build-up of calcium here). After cleaning remove tissue! 14. Before replacing bronze bearing with its 3 seals, you need to make sure that the O ring on the inside of the new bronze bearing will fit properly. To do so, push the new bronze bearing home without fitting the seals. It should go with a hard push from your hands. If it doesn't, try a different O ring, as they are not all absolutely identical. 15. Once you are happy with the O ring fit, fill each rubber seal with grease plus a very small amount on the edge of the in situ bearing to assist entry. Use the old bronze bearing to push in the first, subsequently the second and subsequently the third (i.e. do not put all 3 in at the same time) NB The first 2 seals have the hollow section facing forward, the 3rd has the hollow section facing aft. ALSO it helps in tapping home the old bronze bearing to use a pipe with a greater diameter than the shaft, one end of which you can rest against the outer face of the old bronze bearing and the other end of which you can tap with a hammer. 16. Having tapped home the 3 seals so that the 3rd seal is about 10mm inset, remove the old bronze bearing and push in the new bearing so that it is hard up against the outboard seal. THEN ease the bronze bearing aft 2mm so that it is not actually touching the seal. This will leave the 2 allen keys on the bronze bearing about 2 to 3 mm aft of the in situ bearing and the widest part of the bronze bearing will be about 2mm inside the in situ bearing. Tighten these allen keys. 17. Replace the thin rubber ring on the shaft ahead of the stripper. 18. Fit a new anode on the stripper. When reassembled this anode fits inside the V on the big nut. Tighten the two pairs of allen keys to secure the stripper to the shaft. 19. Replace the rubber ring aft of the stripper. 20. Replace the key in the stainless steel shaft. 21. Clean the inside of the prop and put the prop back on the shaft, lining up the slot on the prop with the key. Tighten up the 24mm nut really tight, to fasten the prop to the shaft and replace the allen key against a flat side of the nut using Loctite. 22. Replace the nylon nose without greasing the 3 nylon nuts. 23. Take this opportunity to re-grease the prop through the allen key holes on each blade and hub. These do not need Loctite on replacement. 24. Refill the leg with 15w40 oil through the reservoir - it will take 8 to 9 litres. 25. When draining the BOW THRUSTER TUBE capture the oil in a transparent container to see if there is any water in it. If there is, change the seal between the prop and the leg. -----Original Message----- From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of minaxi53 Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 3:34 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft bearing Can anyone give a detailed description as how the prop bearings are pulled and replaced. My boatyard mechanic is reluctant to do this as he has not worked on Amels Drive before. Vito, I believe you did this a while ago? How are things going? I see you made it to the other side so far, drop me an email with your adventures "bob@bourlet.com" Thanks for any info Bob Minaxi SM6 Yahoo! Groups Links SPONSORED LINKS Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS a.. Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web. b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
|