Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question regarding procedures for aligning engine on SM

Olivier Beaute

Hi Pat,

Good to hear you could do it.
I see two reasons for the C-drive to be lower by 6 mm:
-the big sleeve has collapsed a little bit when the whole weight of the C-drive was standing on it.
-the new mounts (although with same specs) are stiffer than the old ones and don't go down so much with the weight of the whole system.
Both reasons act together.

As a last setting, and in order to prevent unnecesary stress on the shaft/coupling, I would now just release the pair of bottom hose clamps on the big sleeve, see if it is moving and then tighten again.
During this short operation, you will see some water coming in but probably not more than when you're having a shower...

Tell me if the sleeve moves (mark the gel-coat before opening the clamps).


Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 1 oct. 2015 à 14:59, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> a écrit :


Olivier,  I told you that I was going to change my motor mounts without first unbolting and raising the engine. Although first unbolting the engine and then the frame seems to be the standard procedure. I saw no reason both frame and engine could not be raised together , saving time and hassle unbolting the engine. You asked me to let you know how it went . I had no problems and it went very well. I put a 4x4 resting on the boat where the winches are, slightly aft of center of engine ,with a come along (cable puller) raised both and gravity shifted both aft a few inches , then moved the 4x4 slightly forward lowered both and gravity shifted frame forward , although I still needed to use a car scissor jack on aft bulkhead to frame cross member to push frame forward the last few mm. One question, the C drive was slightly lower about 1/4 inch than frame although I had preset mount to old ones. I had a little trouble getting holes to match up. Can the C drive drop a little when unbolted from the frame? I put blocking under it before unbolting , the blocking seemed to be under a lot of load later. In conclusion , I  see no reason not to do this job leaving frame/engine connected. I ran the boat from idle to 2800 rpm and detected no vibration, so I guess that means all is well?
 Thanks for your help,
 SM Shenanigans #123
-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2015 8:24 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question regarding procedures for aligning engine on SM

Barry, I was wondering , if I removed the bolts securing the mounts to the stringers and unbolted the frame from the C drive, could I not then shift both aft and raise the engine and frame together . This would save disconnecting the engine from the frame.
Thanks Much
Pat SM #123
-----Original Message-----
From: seagasm@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Sep 14, 2015 6:58 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question regarding procedures for aligning engine on SM

Sorry, No I did not take any pictures. It is a pretty well a simple process, disconnect motor, raise it as mentioned, dismantle the support above the C drive and remove it (the C drive sits on the keel and will not move), undo the nuts on the Vetus mounts that secure to the frame (do NOT alter the adjustment nut beneath the frame), either lift the frame over the Vetus mount to remove the mount or dismantle the four pieces of the frame and remove, remove the Vetus mount, measure the distance of the exposed thread then wind down the adjustment nut of the NEW Vetus mount to show the same measurement of exposed thread as the old one, install the the new Vetus mount. Do the same for the remaining three then reassemble everything in reverse.

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM #171

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