Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rig Tuning
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Thank you again and again, Joel, for sharing your expertise here. That's the first time I've heard this about the mizzen back stays. My masts are straight and my mizzen back stays are about what you describe, but I assure you that it's more luck than a thorough understanding of how it should be done.
All the best,
On Mar 3, 2016, at 9:29 AM, 'Joel Potter' jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hey Pat. There is also a very good rig tune instructional that I believe was placed in the Yahoo group from Olivier.
Good question on the mizzen backstays. When you tune the rig, tune the main and mizzen INDEPENDANTLY from each other. Straight up and down vertically. Use the headstay and main backstay, NOT the triatic, to get the rig in column and the headstay tight, do NOT use the triatic. Adjust the triatic last. It should be just tight enough to remove all sloppiness but not pull any part of the rig anywhere. Jacques Carteau told me it is not really needed structurally and is mainly an antennae. He said that the insulators used to make it an antennae were chosen by their fairly weak design strength which would theoretically allow them to fail in case of over tension before the main or mizzen masts could initiate a rigging failure of eithers rigging.
The mizzen should be tuned only with the upper and lower shrouds. Again, tight and straight up and down. Tension the split backstays to have an ‘easy inch or two’ of slack . These are ‘limiters’ that should arrest excessive mizzen mast movement but they should not pull any part of the rig anywhere. If they are too tight the first thing you will notice is stress cracks where the mizzen backstays attach at the transom… these cracks can also come from having the headstay/backstay tension relationship on the main mast too loose allowing it to “pump” in certain wind/sea conditions which subjects the entire rig to dangerous inertial loading. Eventually, just about every one of the hundreds of Super Maramu’s I have sold and resold manifest some slight cracking at the transom due to the fact that the transom is an “insert” laminated into the boat after it comes out of the mold instead of being part of the structural monocoque that the entire rest of the hull and deck assembly represent. This is also the reason one needs to reinforce the transom with fore though and professional assistance if it is used to support davits or an arch as it was not designed to ever do so.
Just as marine tech’s unfamiliar with the Amel DC electrical system ( which is, essentially, exactly the same as what is found on most aluminum boats where ANY electrolytic action can be quickly terminal ) say it is overly complex and then proceed to corrupt it with disastrous results, most riggers say that the rig should not be as tight as we espouse here. Usually I can discuss the big picture with them and the light might go on in their heads, but not always. In the three day school I offer my clients after the purchase of their “new to them” Amel, I spend a great deal of time explaining the Amel characteristics that are not mainstream so that when they need repairs in the future, the Amel owner is well equipped to discern if the tech they are hopefully “interviewing” is capable of making a correct repair and not instigating a potential catastrophe.
Certainly, I don’t know it all. None of us do. But I am fortunate that Amel insisted that I know their boats technically as well as from a features/how to sell standpoint. I am happy to help with anything I am able to if I am asked.
Have fun with your Amel.
All The Best, Joel
Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
954 462 5869 office
954 812 2485 cell