Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge pump service

Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>

Hi John,

I agree with everything that Ed says. It takes longer to take it off and work on it out of the engine room but, what he doesn't say, is the real risk of losing bolts, screw, tools etc. down the bilge! A problem that I have experienced after having manually pumped the bilge - the manual hose goes lower than the electric hose so I can clear some of the muck that accumulates, however careful you are, at the bottom of the bilge - the electric pump can't self prime itself. I used to remove the outlet pipe from the pump and fill it with water, refitting it to the pump very quickly, but later found that if I filled the bilge right up the pump would self prime. Means you need to have water to spare!


Robin Cooter.
Santorin 004

johnabo2003 <> wrote:
Hi Ed,

Thanks for your quick response. I understood everything you wrote
except for the part about the strum box.

Are you referring to the vacuum cleaner like attachment at the bottom
of the pipe going down into the bilge?

When I inspected this I found the following: It looks like there
should be a snap on filter/mesh over the end of the as there are
clips. On mine there is nothing clipped on, I guess whatever was once
there is now lying in the bottom of the bilge. If this attachment is
the strum box I can see no valve as such, however there is some kind
of very basic flap with slots in it, is this what you are referring


--- In, "Edmund Steele"
<edmundsteele@...> wrote:

You can remove the cover of the bilge pump, while it is still
attached to the bulkhead. It faces to the port side and is held in
place with Phillips headed screws. There are two rubber flapper
valves inside, that are held in place with two each of tiny Phillips
headed screws. First cycle the pump (the float switch is within easy
reach and you operate it manually) to make sure that the motor is
working and the diaphragm reciprocates. You then cycle the pump so
that the diaphragm is away from the valves to give you more
clearance. You can unscrew the tiny screws and either invert the
rubber flapper valves or replace them. I have used a quarter inch
socket to hold a Phillips screwdriver bit and then used this to
loosen the two Phillips screws. After they start moving you can
probably fit a jeweler's screwdriver in to unscrew them the rest of
the way. Don't drop any pieces in the bilge!!! Also check that the
valve in the strum box is working. There is a replacement valve in
the rebuild kit and they are easy to replace. You just pull the hose
up out of the bilge and take the snap-off cover off the strum box to
access it. I have done all of these operations while at sea but I can
guarantee the flapper valve replacement is easier at the dock.
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug

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