With respect, I don't think the Xantrex Link controls anything. What
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it does do very well is to monitor the batteries' charging and
discharging. What Dimitris is probably referring to is that the Link
needs to know the Amp Hour capacity of your battery bank in order to
do its calculations. Trojans, for instance are 105 Ah at 6 volts;
thus four batteries would equate to 210 Ah at 12 volts or 105Ah at 24
volts. I have a Link for my 12 volt system and it comes preset to
assume the battery bank has 200 Ah at 12 volts; it needs to be set.
This information should allow you to check and set accordingly.
However, Tony doesn't mention a Link, but a Mastervolt, model not
specified. It probably has the same need for batterybank data.
Whether it's a Link or a Mastervolt, there is no substitute for
checking all the readings with a multimeter. In case you've never
used one, they're really dead easy and provide more accurate data
then other approaches. The Link for instance is just a computer and
so works on the garbage in garbage out principle. (I did find a fault
in my Link and had to return it to the USA for replacement under
warranty.) Maybe the Mastervolt does actually control the charge
voltage, i.e. a master regulator as it's name suggests, in which case
you'd be looking for something like a grubscrew, which may be on the
front, the back, or inside of the unit. The manual or a google search
would tell you.
27.3 volts is a maintenance charge only; however the amperage at 3-5
indicates that the batteries are full (2% of capacity). You do need
to explore the issue until you can establish 28.4 volts. You mention
that you have to run the generator 2-3 times per day to keep up with
demand but do not provide any data on demand. It's not hard to
establish the amp draw for each consumer; the Link can show that
information with a bit of attention to isolating other draws, and
shows the total draw, currently and accumulated, as standard
displays; a multimeter would be better. It's not wise to use more
than half the Ah capacity of your bank and some would say 30%. All
the more reason to ensure your capacity is correctly recorded in the
Finally, have you considered adding solar and wind generation, to set
you free of hydrocarbon generators and shorepower? My solar alone
powers the fridge and ventilators when I'm away, which is the
majority of the time. It's a good feeling to know the boat is carbon
neutral most of the time. More practically, it means that I can leave
her disconnected from shorepower and avoid the dreaded marina
Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba
On 12/03/2007, at 8:56 PM, Krassopoulos Dimitris wrote:
You have to check the Link 10 equipment. This controls the charging
batteries you have to reset and adjust the unit accordingly to the
you want. There is no manual in the net for the link 10 but there
information in the www.xantrex.com <http://www.xantrex.com/> where
the is a
faq section. I have the manual in paper and I could not find the
pdf file if I find it I will inform you.
S/Y Alma Libre
[mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 9:07 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Darn Batteries
I also have the Dolphin chargers 2 50 amp units. I use them in
combination when I charge with the generator and a single unit when I
am on shore power.
If your unit is similar to the one that i have there should be a
selector switch that allows you to choose the type of battery that
you are charging. If you select the GEL setting it will charge at a
higher voltage and a higher amprage. BEWARE when you hook into shore
power make sure that you put the selector switch back to the setting
for wet cell batteries. Because if you leave it on GEL you may run
the danger of cooking the batteries. I learned this the hard way.
However, if you use this feature to slightly overcharge your
batteries say 8 to 10 hours this will help condition your batteries
and help them hold a higher voltage.
Its also important to monitor the the amount of amps that your
battery bank is accepting as well as the voltage. There is much
information out there on this subject.
Hope this helps
Anchored in Sydney harbor.
--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "agav8ter" <agav8ter@...>
I own SM#266. About six months ago I talked with the Amel factory
and discussed my battery / charger problems. They assured me that
needed to replace my current batteries. I did that in St. Maartin,and
new wet cells. Same problem as before. We sailed to Guadaloupe
talked to Amel there. We were directed to Pouchon. The man atNew
Pouchon said that our battery charger (Nemo 50) was defective. I
told him to fix it, he said no, it was too old (1999) there were no
parts. He sold me and installed a new Dolphin 100 amp. charger.
batteries, new charger same old problem.quits.
Charger works fine, charges batteries to 27.3 volts and then
I just talked to Rolls Batteries, and they said I needed to be ablede-
to charge to 28.4 to prevent "deficet charging" and to 31 volts to
sulfate the batteries.As
The batteries show 100% charge (Mastervolt) and 27.3 volts and will
stay like that with the charger going for as long as I leave it.
soon as the charger is off line the voltage drops to 25.6 andstarts
dropping until I charge the batteries again. Currently I must runaamps.
the generator two to three times a day to keep up with the demand.
When using the main engine and 80 amp 24 volt alternator, the same
things happens, the charge stops at 27.3 volts and about 3 - 5
Question: Is there an Amel voltage regulator that gets both the
charger and alternator current? Where is it? Can it be adjusted?
have talked with Denis at Dolphin and it does not seem that my
charger has mulitple programs, so I can not use it to "equalize" my
Thanks in advance for your help,