Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Darn Batteries-Link 10
Hi Dimitris and Tony:toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I can confirm that the Link 10 is a monitoring system only. It does not
directly control anything. It directly monitors voltage at the battery bank
and has a shunt to measure amperage (current flow) in and out of the
battery bank. The amp hours used and percent functions are based on
calculations performed by the Link 10.
However, since most of us depend upon the readings that the Link 10
displays to determine how long to charge the batteries and to what
voltage and/or percent of charge to charge one might say that indeed
the Link 10 does "control", although in an indirect sense, the charging
of the batteries.
Having just re-read Tony's post I can think of a couple of items that
might cause his symptoms. 1) Possibly a single bad battery, 2) a high
resistance connection between the charger and the battery bank, 3) a
high resistance connection between the Link 10 and the battery bank, and
4) a sneak circuit that is draining the battery bank.
For Possibility # 1 To troubleshoot, I would suggest Tony use a digital
multimeter to measure the voltage of the batteries each individually.
You can do this for each battery without removing anything by simply
placing the negative multimeter probe on one negative battery post
and the positive multimeter lead on the positive post of the same battery.
Write your findings down and verify that all batteries have nearly the same
voltage. This will assure you that you don't have a single bad battery
creating a drain on your system. (do this with the charger off, and with
no load on the batteries and then again with a fairly high load on the
#2 Next, measure the charging voltage at the charger output and compare
that with the charging voltage at the batteries. If it isn't nearly identical
then you have a high resistance connection there that you need to correct.
#3 Next, measure the voltage of the entire bank of batteries at the main
bank terminals as they exit the battery box. See if this voltage is that
same as displayed by the Link 10. If it is not very very close than you
have a bad (high resistance) connection on the link 10. Look for it and
correct it. As someone in these post said, "garbage in garbage out".
The Link 10 needs good data to yield good data.
#4 Next, once the battery bank has stabilized from the charging sequence,
(e.g. 30 minutes after charging), shut off every 24 volt breaker including
any "keep alive memory" circuits (like the radio memory switch on my
Hull # 335 Amel), and verify that the Link 10 shows zero current draw
and that the voltage is stable (i.e. not dropping). If it doesn't show zero
current draw or a stable voltage then you have a "sneak circuit" somewhere
that is draining your batteries. Normally the voltage will drop very slowly,
we are talking a few tenths of a volt over many hours due to battery self
discharge. If there is more rapid drop off you will need to find the sneak
circuit and fix it. That can involve a bit of detective work and a "clamp
ammeter", that usually cost about $US 50.
Tony, lastly, verify that your set up of the Link 10 has proper data set
into it as previously mentioned in this thread. Use the install manual to
verify the correct set up. Take careful notes during each step of this
Trouble-shooting process and I believe you will find your problem.
Gary Silver s/v Liahona lying Antigua
firstname.lastname@example.org, "Krassopoulos Dimitris" <dkra@...> wrote: