Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Darn Batteries-Link 10

roger_h_banks <roger.banks@...>

Mea culpa. In this thread, I referred to Trojan T105s rated as 105 amp hours @ 6 volts.
They are in fact 225Ah @ 6v, giving a capacity over 4 batteries, series & parallel, of 450Ah
@ 12v, a far better setup for cruising. My batteries were obviously half dead when I
installed the Xantrex Link 20, set to what I thought was the capacity. These compensating
errors made all seem reasonable .... until the batteries finally gave up the ghost. None of
this changes the import of the earlier discussion.

Having had a true expert on board to review my future battery options and exhausting
many possibilities and types, we ended up with, yes, Trojan T105's. The output of the,
presumably original, house alternator does not seem to be anywhere near adequate, so I'm
about to embark on installing an Amp Tech 140A @ 12 volts, with an Ample Power SARv3

Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

--- In, Roger Banks <roger.banks@...> wrote:


In the best spirit of friendship, here is a hyperlink to the "Xantrex
Link 10 Battery Monitor" Owner's Manual. Nothing in the manual refers
to control or regulation and, having personally installed a Xantrex,
I can confirm there is no such function in mine.

Here is a link to a sample Mastervolt, the Alpha Pro, which is a 3-
step charge regulator. Different beast altogether.

Hope this all helps Tony with his issue.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

On 13/03/2007, at 7:18 PM, Krassopoulos Dimitris wrote:

I do not agree that the Link 10 does not control anything. It
controls the
voltage cut off for sure so if it is not adjusted correctly the
will never be charged the same applies also as you mention for the
capacity. So in any case the Link 10 or Mastervolt have to be
adjusted to
the voltage and capacity.



S/Y Alma Libre



[] On Behalf Of Roger Banks
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Darn Batteries-Link 10

With respect, I don't think the Xantrex Link controls anything. What
it does do very well is to monitor the batteries' charging and
discharging. What Dimitris is probably referring to is that the Link
needs to know the Amp Hour capacity of your battery bank in order to
do its calculations. Trojans, for instance are 105 Ah at 6 volts;
thus four batteries would equate to 210 Ah at 12 volts or 105Ah at 24
volts. I have a Link for my 12 volt system and it comes preset to
assume the battery bank has 200 Ah at 12 volts; it needs to be set.
This information should allow you to check and set accordingly.

However, Tony doesn't mention a Link, but a Mastervolt, model not
specified. It probably has the same need for batterybank data.
Whether it's a Link or a Mastervolt, there is no substitute for
checking all the readings with a multimeter. In case you've never
used one, they're really dead easy and provide more accurate data
then other approaches. The Link for instance is just a computer and
so works on the garbage in garbage out principle. (I did find a fault
in my Link and had to return it to the USA for replacement under
warranty.) Maybe the Mastervolt does actually control the charge
voltage, i.e. a master regulator as it's name suggests, in which case
you'd be looking for something like a grubscrew, which may be on the
front, the back, or inside of the unit. The manual or a google search
would tell you.

27.3 volts is a maintenance charge only; however the amperage at 3-5
indicates that the batteries are full (2% of capacity). You do need
to explore the issue until you can establish 28.4 volts. You mention
that you have to run the generator 2-3 times per day to keep up with
demand but do not provide any data on demand. It's not hard to
establish the amp draw for each consumer; the Link can show that
information with a bit of attention to isolating other draws, and
shows the total draw, currently and accumulated, as standard
displays; a multimeter would be better. It's not wise to use more
than half the Ah capacity of your bank and some would say 30%. All
the more reason to ensure your capacity is correctly recorded in the

Finally, have you considered adding solar and wind generation, to set
you free of hydrocarbon generators and shorepower? My solar alone
powers the fridge and ventilators when I'm away, which is the
majority of the time. It's a good feeling to know the boat is carbon
neutral most of the time. More practically, it means that I can leave
her disconnected from shorepower and avoid the dreaded marina
galvanic corrosion.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

On 12/03/2007, at 8:56 PM, Krassopoulos Dimitris wrote:

You have to check the Link 10 equipment. This controls the charging
of the
batteries you have to reset and adjust the unit accordingly to the
you want. There is no manual in the net for the link 10 but there
is some
information in the <http://www.xantrex.
<> com/> where
the is a
faq section. I have the manual in paper and I could not find the
pdf file if I find it I will inform you.


S/Y Alma Libre



From: amelyachtowners@ <>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ <>] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 9:07 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Darn Batteries

Hi Tony

I also have the Dolphin chargers 2 50 amp units. I use them in
combination when I charge with the generator and a single unit
when I
am on shore power.

If your unit is similar to the one that i have there should be a
selector switch that allows you to choose the type of battery that
you are charging. If you select the GEL setting it will charge at a
higher voltage and a higher amprage. BEWARE when you hook into shore
power make sure that you put the selector switch back to the setting
for wet cell batteries. Because if you leave it on GEL you may run
the danger of cooking the batteries. I learned this the hard way.

However, if you use this feature to slightly overcharge your
batteries say 8 to 10 hours this will help condition your batteries
and help them hold a higher voltage.

Its also important to monitor the the amount of amps that your
battery bank is accepting as well as the voltage. There is much
information out there on this subject.

Hope this helps

Vito Ciaravin

ASM 283

Anchored in Sydney harbor.

--- In amelyachtowners@ <>, "agav8ter" <agav8ter@>

Hello group,

I own SM#266. About six months ago I talked with the Amel factory
and discussed my battery / charger problems. They assured me that
needed to replace my current batteries. I did that in St. Maartin,
new wet cells. Same problem as before. We sailed to Guadaloupe
talked to Amel there. We were directed to Pouchon. The man at
Pouchon said that our battery charger (Nemo 50) was defective. I
told him to fix it, he said no, it was too old (1999) there
were no
parts. He sold me and installed a new Dolphin 100 amp. charger.
batteries, new charger same old problem.


Charger works fine, charges batteries to 27.3 volts and then
I just talked to Rolls Batteries, and they said I needed to be
to charge to 28.4 to prevent "deficet charging" and to 31 volts to
sulfate the batteries.

The batteries show 100% charge (Mastervolt) and 27.3 volts and
stay like that with the charger going for as long as I leave it.
soon as the charger is off line the voltage drops to 25.6 and
dropping until I charge the batteries again. Currently I must run
the generator two to three times a day to keep up with the demand.

When using the main engine and 80 amp 24 volt alternator, the same
things happens, the charge stops at 27.3 volts and about 3 - 5

Question: Is there an Amel voltage regulator that gets both the
charger and alternator current? Where is it? Can it be adjusted?
have talked with Denis at Dolphin and it does not seem that my
charger has mulitple programs, so I can not use it to
"equalize" my

Any comments?

Thanks in advance for your help,

Tony Gray
SM 266
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