Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow roller and turn

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>


Like you point out, a boat that spends time in water that is cooler, and/or less salty will have rigging with a longer life due to slower corrosion rates.  Rigging that is kept tuned well and not subject to shock loading will workharden slower and live longer.  Roller swages, especially those by inexperienced operators or made on poorly maintained equipment, are subject to higher rates of premature failure compared to good rotary hammer swages. 316L rigging will corrode slower than 316, although it starts out a bit lower in strength.

All those things are true, but not usefully quantifiable. Good, sophisticated, and experienced riggers who have seen failures, and looked at lots of old rigs and seen what goes wrong and how fast, are the best source of recommendations for replacement times.  Ten years for tropics, 15 for temperate, and maybe 20 for freshwater seem to be the industry standard, conservative, numbers.  Of course nobody's rig falls down when it is 10 years and one day old.  But risk increases quickly as time goes on.

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie 
Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA 

On Sep 24, 2016, at 05:18, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


   I agree with your points and even 15 years in the tropics would bother me.  One exception seems to be boats used partial seasons well up North such as Canada or freshwater boats where the corrosion rates are much slower.  I have also found some huge variability in the quality of wire and fittings with some failing at only 3-4 years (usually cracks in the rolled swage).  Rigging is not a good place to try and save a few dollars IMO.

James Alton
SV Sueno, Maramu #220

Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 9/23/16 23:50 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]  bow roller and turn



I’ll double up on that advice!

Stainless steel has lots of failure modes that are simply NOT visible to any inspection until catastrophic failure occurs.  When I read about a rigger doing a visual inspection and then telling someone that their 15 year old rigging can go another 15 years my blood runs cold.  That amounts to professional malpractice.

Amel rigging is well designed, but it is made of stainless steel.  Work hardening, crevice corrosion, and other things cannot be engineered out--they are intrinsic properties of the metal.  It has a finite life, no matter what it looks like on the outside.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."

On Sep 23, 2016, at 16:34, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I replaced all of my standing rigging at 13 years old.  I had them cut a few swages open and two of them had a lot of corrosion in the cable under the swage.  There was no visible hint that there was a problem until they were cut open.

On Sep 23, 2016, at 3:02 PM, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



   Spraying the turnbuckle was actually one of the first things I did when I got back to Sueno but thank you for the suggestion, I think it was a good one.  The new ACMO rigging will be here in early Oct. And it is possible that the turnbuckles have not been turned in 29 years since she has the original rigging.  Amazingly neither the survey or myself have found a single crack in any of the fittings so I have been cautiously sailing the boat ahead of installing the new rigging.  

James Alton
SV Sueno Maramu #220

Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> 
Date: 9/23/16 19:09 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]  bow roller and turn 


Hi while you are spraying put a few drops on each turn buckel. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing 
Capt Richard Piller
Newport RI 
Cell 603 767 5330

On Sep 23, 2016, at 09:37, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



   I appreciate your experienced input.  I will begin spraying the penetrating oil up into the joint between the motor housing and the tube as you suggested.  This will give me over two weeks of soaking before the boat is hauled.  I will go ahead and order a set of bearings in addition to the items listed. I will also order the Amel tool if you think it would be helpful.

  I just wanted to add that I am now really glad that I bought an Amel with the bow thruster, it is such a help with stern in Med moorings.


James Alton
SV Sueno #220
Sardinia, Italy

Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> 
Date: 9/23/16 14:23 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu bow thruster rebuild parts



Check with Amel for:
  Prop hub and screws
  Tube seal
  Prop shaft seal
  Foam donuts (3)

That should do it for normal service...however, you may want to open it and replace the bearings.

When corrosion occurs that seizes the tube, it is almost always oxidation (rust) of the cast iron motor connection at the tube. The corrosion expands the cast iron and "clamps" the tube in place. Spraying in those holes will get some penetrating fluid where you need it and spraying upward at the joint. Use an entire stay can over 2-3 days.

Amel designed a tool which will separate the tube. It clamps onto the tube, then treaded bolts push the tube out of the corrosion-packed connection. It is pictured in the Files section. The number one tool you need is patience. 

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Sep 23, 2016 5:00 AM, "lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


  I need to service the bow thruster on my 46' 1987 Maramu.  Can anyone provide me a list of the normal parts to order with part numbers if possible?

   Also,  my thruster has not been serviced in a number of years and I suspect the motor shaft is stuck on the vertical drive shaft.  I removed the 4 bolts securing the composite tube and did some gentle tapping and tugging with no movement.  There is no corrosion evident between the composite tube and the motor housing since the previous owner keeper that we'll lubricated.  I was hoping that I could spray through the holes for the bolts securing the composite tube to the motor housing but I noted that on my thruster the holes only go part of the way through the composite tube.  Do the bolt holes go all of the way through the opposite tube on the SM?  If so,  is there any reason that I cou ld not drill on through one holes so that I can spray the drive shaft?  One of the holes has stripped threads so I was thinking of drilling deeper to retap the threads but I don't know how thick the tube is etc.   Any guidance here would be appreciated.


James Alton,  SV Sueno #220.

Sardinia, Italy

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