Skeg question--(thanks for the detailed information, Joel)--Is the
skeg the same? I have a similar problem with some exposed metal on
the skeg of my 1993 Santorin. Do the same recommendations apply?
Brittany de la Mer
--- In email@example.com, "Joel F. Potter"
capacity regarding my
professional work with my colleagues at AMEL. Sorry, my lawyerinsists on this.
misplaced it. Just today I
was reminded by a patiently waiting friend that I had yet to postit.
keel coatings are as
follows:elements and DON'T MIX
any part with components from another manufacturer. This isparticularly important when
employing solvents/cleaners, thinners, bulking material,catylizers, and fairing
compounds. To do so is almost always a recipe for disaster. Useepoxy materials. Do not
use polyester.are there for a reason
and each brand has it's own quirks. Be sure to understand theentire process completely
from start to finish before you begin. Just good common sensehere. Sorry…
external iron ballast,
consider age as well as condition. Ten to fifteen years, on theaverage, seems to be the
life span for the epoxy coatings in warm Caribbean water. Colderwater is not as harsh an
environment so you can count on a few more years generally.choice. Sand a well attached
area of the present keel coating to remove the bottompaint/antifouling only. Heavily
saturate a shop towel with the chosen solvent and secure it firmlyto the exposed keel
coatings. Keep an eye on it for spontaneous combustion inhot/humid areas (ask me how I
know this!) Mix a small batch of epoxy and spread it on thepresent keel coatings (after
sanding off the anti-fouling) fairly thick about 3"x 3" x ¼". Havea beer. Have another
one. After the solvent has evaporated and the epoxy hardened, lookfor bubbling or
lifting around the edges. Go home for the evening.epoxy "patch". Are the
original coatings solid? Any evidence of loss of adhesion orbubbling? If so you have
two choices. Try the same process with another brand ofreplacement materials or remove
ALL the coatings on the iron keel before replacing it all. If yourcoatings are near the
end of their life expectancy, this last suggestion is usually forthe best overall
solution.STUFF IS POISON. IT WILL
MAKE YOU WISH YOU HAD DIED IF IT DOESN'T KILL YOU. Wear a plastictoxic exposure suit,
and an appropriate respirator, eye protection and foam ear plugs.Gloves are essential.
two things in common
in the preparation phase of the iron keel. These are:ONLY
BRIGHT SHINY iron is exposed. No residual coatings orcorrosion
is to be tolerated. The iron should look like silver.state, you
have at best a matter of a very few minutes to get theprimer/sealer coat
on the bright metal. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENTrust
begins at a microscopic level where you can't see it, but it isthere. This
will cause the spread of this rust/oxidation once the iron iscoated and
anti-fouled and will greatly reduce the life of the repair. Ihad one
unfortunate acquaintance who sand blasted his keel in theafternoon
and coated it the next morning. It was good material fromInternational
and it all, and I mean ALL came unattached in three weekstime. I
always prepare and coat an area of about 1' X 3" before movingon to
the next section of keel.STEEL. There is quite
a difference.from one manufacturer.
It's easier to get a satisfactory resolution to any eventualproblem when all fingers
point in one direction.