Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck


Mike Ondra
 

So that explains why the hawse pipe is also showing rust. Thanks. This bolt must have been leaking seawater for quite some time.

Mike

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 2:18 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

 

 

Hi again,

whatever you do have a nut on top. Then it cant happen again. I drilled up from the bottom, there was too much bolt to go through from the top. This bolt is the critical one. Being through a plate attached to the hawse pipe it gives the strength to the attachment. Otherwise it is only the deck holding the winch and there would be considerable flexing under load leading to deck failure.

Cheers

Danny

 


From: "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2016 1:48 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

 

 

Mike,

Danny's thru-bolt solution sounds good and the drilling, as he points out, will be the key to success. With the good amount of bolt you've got left above deck you may want to try removing it before you go to drilling it out, even though it may shear off. After a good soaking with penetrants (use some acid too, to attack the salts) you may be able to lock two nuts on top to screw it out. If or when that fails you could weld a short bolt of the same diameter to the broken end and use the new bolts hex head to turn. The welding heat may also help break the threads free. If still no joy,you're likely into drilling it out,. Here's a great link to using tread inserts after drilling out the bolt. https://racemagazine.com.au/cars/thread-repair-how-to-fix-broken-bolts-and-stripped-threads

Good luck with it,

Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris. 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <simms@...> wrote :

Hi mike. I drilled mine out and put a bolt through. I now have a nut top and bottom
I  lost a lot of sweat and blunted several drills in the process. If you can get a cobalt drill they cut stainless much better than the standard. I didn't have one, as always I was fixing a boat in an exotic location.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On Oct 17, 2016 4:33 AM, "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

[Attachment(s) from Mike Ondra included below]

As others may have experienced with removing the windlass from the deck, 3 of the 4 bolts were easily removed. The aft starboard bolt is threaded into the deck (no visible nut and probably into a glassed in steel plate). In fact in the bow locker there is rust stain coming through the fiberglass deck and also all along the hawse pipe.

 

In attempting removal the bolt head sheared off leaving a stud about 1” above the deck as pictured above (assuming picture goes with email. I am afraid that continuing to attempt to remove the remaining bole will simply result in shearing off at the deck line. My question is what have others done in this situation?

 

I can envision finding a coupling that could be used but would require an enlargement of the bolt hole in the windlass base thereby weakening it. The stud could be cut off and the windlass moved slightly with new holes for all bolts.

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

 

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