Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

Mike Ondra

WOW! That is quite the extraction set!

Just what people with old boats need.



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 7:06 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck



Hello Mike,

As you might have seen on my Windlass overhaul illustration, I have tools for broken bolt, screw, etc. This is a good idea to have on board…
I actually just purchase more…
If you had access to a Irwin Hanson Bolt Extractor (Set 54009) that cost $65 that would be good for this project and the future…
I also recently purchase the Irwin Hanson 11135 crew extractor… but they seem to have a new 48 pieces

Sincerely, Alexandre
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

On Mon, 10/17/16, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Monday, October 17, 2016, 1:17 PM


you do have a nut on top. Then it cant happen again. I
drilled up from the bottom, there was too much bolt to go
through from the top. This bolt is the critical one. Being
through a plate attached to the hawse pipe it gives the
strength to the attachment. Otherwise it is only the deck
holding the winch and there would be considerable flexing
under load leading to deck failure.CheersDanny

"sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]"

Sent: Tuesday, 18
October 2016 1:48 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel
Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck


Mike,Danny's thru-bolt solution
sounds good and the drilling, as he points out, will be the
key to success. With the good amount of bolt you've got
left above deck you may want to try removing it before you
go to drilling it out, even though it may shear off. After a
good soaking with penetrants (use some acid too, to attack
the salts) you may be able to lock two nuts on top to screw
it out. If or when that fails you could weld a short bolt of
the same diameter to the broken end and use the new bolts
hex head to turn. The welding heat may also help break the
threads free. If still no joy,you're likely into
drilling it out,. Here's a great link to using tread
inserts after drilling out the bolt.
luck with it,Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris. 

---In amelyachtowners@...,
<simms@...> wrote :

mike. I drilled mine out and put a bolt through. I now have
a nut top and bottom

I  lost a lot of sweat and blunted several drills in the
process. If you can get a cobalt drill they cut stainless
much better than the standard. I didn't have one, as
always I was fixing a boat in an exotic location.



SM 299 ocean pearl

Sent from my Vodafone SmartOn Oct 17,
2016 4:33 AM, "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@...
<amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

from Mike Ondra included
below]As others may have
experienced with removing the windlass from the deck, 3 of
the 4 bolts were easily removed. The aft starboard bolt is
threaded into the deck (no visible nut and probably into a
glassed in steel plate). In fact in the bow locker there is
rust stain coming through the fiberglass deck and also all
along the hawse pipe. In attempting
removal the bolt head sheared off leaving a stud about 1”
above the deck as pictured above (assuming picture goes with
email. I am afraid that continuing to attempt to remove the
remaining bole will simply result in shearing off at the
deck line. My question is what have others done in this
situation? I can envision finding a
coupling that could be used but would require an enlargement
of the bolt hole in the windlass base thereby weakening it.
The stud could be cut off and the windlass moved slightly
with new holes for all
bolts. Thoughts? Mike
OndraAletes SM#240Rock Hall,

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