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Glad it worked,
You might also invest in the purple cobalt drills from McMaster Carr they are made especially for drilling stainless. They are not inexpensive but I keep them on board when all else fails. I also use the dam technique when drilling stainless and fill it with drilling oil for stainless also from McMaster.
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2016 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck
Another success for your dam technique! Thanks for the suggestion.
I had a 5mm machine screw that I had almost given up on getting out in one piece. Not only was it a stainless screw corroded into aluminum, but it had also been sheared, and was bent, jamming the threads for that extra measure of difficulty. And it’s not big enough to really lean on without breaking. Oil, heat, pressure, over and over, and not so much as a wiggle.
I didn’t have any “duct seal” so I improvised by making a stiff dough of flour and water for the dam. It wasn’t perfect, but it worked. After twenty-four hours of soaking in a puddle of PB Blaster, the screw backed out easily. I can see using this often in my future.
“Ships and men rot in port."
I have had great success over the years removing stuck and broken bolts in this manner:
I use a clay like substance called here in the USA Duct Seal.
I build up a small dam around the offending bolts and fill the dam with PB blaster for a week. The bolts almost always are loose by that time if not I continue the process eventually they come out.
It is also important to try to turn the bolt in both directions to spread the PB blaster.
When I re install them I use a paste called never seize high temperature. It is especially good on the outhaul shaft.
Works like a charm.
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
Danny's thru-bolt solution sounds good and the drilling, as he points out, will be the key to success. With the good amount of bolt you've got left above deck you may want to try removing it before you go to drilling it out, even though it may shear off. After a good soaking with penetrants (use some acid too, to attack the salts) you may be able to lock two nuts on top to screw it out. If or when that fails you could weld a short bolt of the same diameter to the broken end and use the new bolts hex head to turn. The welding heat may also help break the threads free. If still no joy,you're likely into drilling it out,. Here's a great link to using tread inserts after drilling out the bolt. https://racemagazine.com.au/cars/thread-repair-how-to-fix-broken-bolts-and-stripped-threads
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris.
---In amelyachtowners@..., <simms@...> wrote :
Hi mike. I drilled mine out and put a bolt through. I now have a nut top and bottom
I lost a lot of sweat and blunted several drills in the process. If you can get a cobalt drill they cut stainless much better than the standard. I didn't have one, as always I was fixing a boat in an exotic location.
SM 299 ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On Oct 17, 2016 4:33 AM, "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
[Attachment(s) from Mike Ondra included below]
As others may have experienced with removing the windlass from the deck, 3 of the 4 bolts were easily removed. The aft starboard bolt is threaded into the deck (no visible nut and probably into a glassed in steel plate). In fact in the bow locker there is rust stain coming through the fiberglass deck and also all along the hawse pipe.
In attempting removal the bolt head sheared off leaving a stud about 1” above the deck as pictured above (assuming picture goes with email. I am afraid that continuing to attempt to remove the remaining bole will simply result in shearing off at the deck line. My question is what have others done in this situation?
I can envision finding a coupling that could be used but would require an enlargement of the bolt hole in the windlass base thereby weakening it. The stud could be cut off and the windlass moved slightly with new holes for all bolts.
Rock Hall, MD