Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

Mike Ondra

Thank you all for your various inputs. For the “rest of the story”. Ultimately penetrating oil, double nutting and a rather long extension on the wrench handle facilitated removal of the bolt/stud. The windlass was reinstalled with careful attention to bedding both the windlass base and all the bolts/washers. The new bolt for the embedded plate went in fine, with it’s appropriate Tef-gel coating.

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

St. Augustine bound


From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2016 1:45 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck





If you think think you have enough threads left in the metal plate, the best thing to do is to use it, and the best way to avoid future problems is to make sure the windlass is well bedded down so it doesn't leak, and use a good thread lubricant on the bolt.  Tef-gel, Lanacote, or something similar.  


The reason Amel put a plate in the deck only for that bolt, is that for the other three bolts there was plenty of room to add proper backing plates under the deck.  With the chainpipe right there, there was no room for a backing plate. A bolt and washer is not sufficient to distribute the load from a windlass to an unreinforced deck.  Now, since the plate will still be there to help distribute the load, even if you do switch to a thru-bolt, it's not that big a change.


Oh, yes and then follow Lofrans recommendations for rebedding the windlass on a regular basis.


By the way, I have seen people refer to the plate as "steel", but there is nothing magnetic in my deck there, so I am guessing it is stainless.


Bill Kinney

SM #160 Harmonie

Annapolis, MD



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