Hi Duane,
Actually the 24v reading from A to B indicates the solenoid is Open. When closed it is simply like a wire conducting electricity and any two points along it will have no potential difference. To confirm, switch your multimeter to continuity testing (Ohms) and you should see 0 ohms (or very low) from A to B, indicating, again, an open circuit.
Shift over to looking at the solenoid. The GW control wire is + and always hot, since it's connected to the battery +. (Confirm that with your multimeter) The Bl appears to be providing - to the low voltage coil which activates the solenoid. I'm assuming you're certain of how the wires were attached and you've got them back correctly.
Suggest you check voltage between Bl and GW on the solenoid with the switch off, then on. If you do not get 24v when switched on then investigate the switch. If you do get 24v, then disconnect BL and touch a jumper between A and BL connector on the solenoid. The solenoid should close with a good click (and the motor start).
You may also want to try a large wire jumper (like a battery jumper) between A and B on the solenoid. It will be a little exciting with a spark, but should start the motor and confirm the solenoid is kaput.
Good luck,
Craig, SN#68 Sangaris
---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailor63109@...> wrote :
The 24 volt motor won't start on the Duo 60. I'm a little suspicious of the cause since I was replacing the one-way bearings on the Cat Pump. It worked up to that point, and then when the bearing problem was solved, would not start.
I posted photos of the motor and the start solenoid with a wiring diagram. Referring to the diagram I tested it for voltage with the Dessalator switched to 24V, and the breaker on, and get 24.7 volts between A (bat neg on the source side of the solenoid) and B (bat neg on the load side of the solenoid), and A and C (bat pos on the motor), but zero between B and C. For the motor to run there has to be voltage between B and C. Since I get 24 volts between A and B, it seems the solenoid is closed (contact is made) so the solenoid is good??? But when I switch off the Dessalator 24 volt selector switch, I get the exact same readings.
I have no experience with solenoids, so I will be the first to admit I don't know what I'm doing. Does this make sense to anyone out there? And does it tell you anything about the solenoid?
I've already cleaned up all the contact points, which looked ok to start with.
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477
