With butyl you can clean the edges... but it is still sticky (and will always be) and debris just sticks again. So for a place with a thick, exposed seam, it might not be best choice.
There are some little tips and tricks that aren't really unique to bedding butyl, but seem to help. Where bolts go through a deck, put a little countersink around the bolt hole to give the butyl someplace to flow into and seal more of the bolt's length. When tightening bolts, try as much as possible to turn the nut, NOT the bolt, to keep from spinning the butyl around. If two parts have a really tight fit, I have put washers between them as spacers to make sure that I don't squeeze out too much of the butyl.
I replaced a large plexiglass window in an old S2 sailboat that was installed with 3145 that didn't leak but was crazed to opaque. The manufacturer's recommended method for removal of the old window: Sledgehammer. It worked :)
La Parguera, Puerto Rico.
, wrote :
Thanks for your input on the butyl tape. I always wondered if it were safe to use on/under plexiglass so good to know. Can you clean up the dirt that attaches with a solvent? I am going to start using the butyl tape as a bedding material and see how I like it.
I thought that I would mention a caulki ng that has worked well for me in bedding large plexiglass windows with a lot of movement. It is the Dow Corning 3145, which is a non corrosive (actually primarily used for electrical work), very elastic and strong silicone caulking. If you sand the edge of the plexiglass and apply the plastic primer recommended by Dow(I can get the part # on the primer if anyone needs it) to the bonding surfaces, the adhesion is amazing. I used this initially on a customers boat that had a lot of flex in the cabin trunk and huge windows that tore the regular marine silicone caulkings apart in 2-3 years with regularity. The 3145 generally lasted 7-8 years which saved a lot of labour. It only comes in clear and gray unfortunately and the gray is what you want for long UV exposure. One downside is that the stuff can take a lot of heat so using a heat gun to warm a fitting for removal is not very effective. A sharpened putty knife see ms to be the best way to go.
SV Sueno, Maramu #220