Here are the instructions for the autoprop. Takes a bot 3 hours due to the difficulty inremoving the split bearing from the blade.
SM 376 Kimberlite
H6 Roller Bearing General Instructions
Your Autoprop is
supplied assembled, tested, balanced and ready to fit to your yacht.
following instructions will ensure a correct installation and trouble free
service for a long time. Do not grease your propeller during
Before fitting your new Autoprop ensure that
the cutlass bearing is not worn. A worn
cutlass bearing will not be suitable for any propeller. If it is worn replace it with a good quality
bearing assembly with a brass shell.
- After removing the old propeller check
that the shaft taper, key and thread are undamaged.
- Try the new shaft nut (#11) on the
- Check that the key will slide through
the keyway in the propeller hub. Clean and dry the taper on the shaft.
- Without the key in the shaft push the
Autoprop onto the shaft firmly.
Mark the shaft at the fwd end of the propeller hub. Now remove the Autoprop and install the
key into the shaft.
- Re-install the Autoprop making sure that
the fwd end of the hub comes to the mark you have made on the shaft
previously. If it does continue
with the installation.
- If not then you will remove the Autoprop
and file the key until you can push the Autoprop onto the shaft to your
mark. This is now showing that the
propeller hub is matching the shaft taper correctly.
- Tighten the shaft nut (#11) to the shaft
with a socket spanner (0.875).
- Install and tighten the shaft nut
locking screw (#10) into the shaft nut.
It may be necessary to dimple the nut if the locking screw does not
match up with one of the flats on the shaft nut.
- Smear the shaft nut locking screw (#10)
with Loctite or other thread locking compound and retighten into the hub
against the shaft nut.
- Replace the zinc anode (#12) with the
nylon screws. Do not over tighten.
- The Autoprop is now ready to use. There is no need to grease the propeller
as it has been done at the factory prior to shipping to you.
Removal of your Autoprop:
Autoprop makes and sells an Autoprop specific propeller puller. However most three legged prop pullers will
work with the Autoprop.
the zinc anode from the aft end of the propeller.
the shaft nut locking bolt … at least until it is clear of the shaft nut.
the shaft nut from the shaft.
the propeller using either the three legged puller or the Autoprop puller.
It is not correct to simply pound
the fwd end of the hub with a hammer.
using the Autoprop puller, screw the plate onto the back of the propeller
using the socket head metric screws provided into the holes for the zinc
attachment. Now thread in the large
jacking bolt and tighten against the end of the shaft until the Autoprop
comes loose from the taper.
the key to the shaft for safe keeping.
Keys are a part of the shafting and not a part of the
Haulout Inspection and Cleaning:
you haul the boat for bottom cleaning or other reasons … have the Autoprop
pressure washed before it has a chance to dry out.
will remove any deposits, which, if left to dry will make the propeller
feel sticky when rotated.
washing, rotate the blades by hand to ensure they are free moving.
“rock” the blades back and forth to also check for free movement in this
movement is felt at this time then refer to the Bearing Adjustment section as the tension on the bearings
might well require attention.
to re-launching the boat power wash the propeller as this will remove any
foreign particles which may have lodged in the race and bearing
areas. Boatyards can be dusty
refer to the Greasing your Autoprop
section should you need to re-grease the bearings.
- It is
recommended to re-grease your propeller if you plan to have the boat
hauled out for a long period of time.
Greasing your Autoprop:
To re-grease your Autoprop it is not
necessary remove the propeller or to remove the blades
Always use a good quality waterproof lithium
grease. In USA we recommend
CRC # SL3110 .. generally found at an auto
parts store like NAPA.
- Locate the grease channel screws
(#7). There will be two per blade …
one at the side of the blade and one in the centre. Note that there are
“O” rings fitted to each screw.
- Remove the 5mm pan head screws … two of
them per blade, using an allen key.
- Fit the grease nipple (TRI-0168 supplied
with each propeller) into the grease channel (#7) and connect to the
- Pump the grease into the blade until you
have forced the older grease out of the other hole (#7).
- During the procedure rotate the blade back
and forth so as to get new grease around the bearings.
- When new clean grease exits the second
hole in the blade you are finished.
- Remove the grease nipple. Clean any excess grease from the blades
and replace both of the channel screws (#7) into each blade.
- Proceed with the other two blades and
you will be complete.
Your new Autoprop is
fitted with greasing channels and screws in each blade. It is not necessary to remove blades to
re-grease the propeller. It cannot be
done under water, but should be done during a routine haul out and bottom
It is recommended to
re-grease every year if possible but at least every two years.
The Autoprop needs
good protection from electrolytic and chemical corrosion. Ensure that you
replace the zinc anode (#12) each year.
For extra protection it is advisable to fit a shaft zinc or shaft
bushes, as the Autoprop zinc will only protect the propeller.
Autoprop bearings will need replacing.
This is a straight forward procedure
and is covered in the kit when ever a bearing replacement is requested.
To order a bearing
kit simply contact your Autoprop dealer and have the serial number (#serial
number) at hand.