Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good afternoon Pat,toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I am slowly reading, in disorder, the Amel post and wanted to share my experience on the engine temperature.
The gage was showing my engine was running 195*F, I thought it was 10*F higher than normal.
So 3 years ago in Florida, a diesel company pushed me in spending over $8,000 in engine work over a 5 months period (heat exchanger cooling, re-calibrate injector, new turbo, thermostat, and so on) then my engine was running even warmer (205*F) (which we later find was due to an air pocket in the radiator - then I was glad to be back 195*F.
The gage was tested and was ok.
Then at the end I had a 2nd gage installed on the engine and it showed a 20*F cooler temperature…
So looking back I think it was the “wire” between the sensor and the gage that was getting old and showing a false reading.
Based on my experience and the fact you also have a 20*F difference between the gage and infrared gun, I suspect you have the same issue as I had.
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Lost on September 5 during Hurricane Irma at
IGY Simpson Bay Marina, St Maarten, NA
On Sat, 9/16/17, Patrick Mcaneny email@example.com [amelyachtowners] <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
Date: Saturday, September 16, 2017, 8:18 AM
for one agree , I wish I did not have a turbo, just another
complexity , that is really not necessary . You brought up
one other issue that I am dealing with , engine temperature
. I had a new Volvo instrument panel installed a few years
ago and the temp gauge ran hot like 230 F. The mechanic
installed a 10 ohm resister I think, in the wiring to
bring the reading down . Seemed very arbitrary to me ,
seemed to me a Volvo gauge should correctly read a Volvo
sender without regulating the signal. So I have never had
faith in the gauge and running hard 2500 rpm the gauge reads
225 F. , using a infrared gun at the thermostat I have had
readings of 200 to 205 or higher . This is another reason I
have ran slower to keep the temp. down. I clean the heat
exchanger yearly ,transmission cooler, new impeller ,etc. I
am not sure if I have an overheating problem or not , not
sure what one would expect the temp to be at the thermostat
, two different guns give me different readings and the
gauge can't be trusted.
Its always something,
From: 'Mark Erdos' email@example.com
Sent: Fri, Sep 15, 2017 5:05 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs
Salt water is
the enemy. I am hoping someone else will chime in here as I
am not familiar
with the elbow and the exhaust set up on Volvo. You may be
getting a fine mist or
steam into the turbo. I am really not sure.
On the Yanmar
it is important to keep the elbow clean because carbon
coated sides can aid to
a back up of water into the turbo as the walls can retain
water once the engine
is stopped turning into salty steam. Keeping the exhaust
manifolds clean is also
a good thing.
Yanmar makes a
cleaner for turbos but soapy water can be used just as well.
It involves two
people, one to drive the boat above 2000 rpm and another to
spray cleaner into
the tubo (through the air intake) while it is turning at a
high rate. This
removes any carbon buildup from the turbo.
Diesels do need
to be run hard. We are all guilty of running for long hours
at low RPM. They really
don’t like this much. Push the throttle up for about 2-3
minutes every hour, or
so. I push mine to about 2700-2800 rpm for about 2 minutes.
This also helps to
see if the engine is cooling properly (180-195). If the heat
clogged, this is when its going overheat. I get nervous
about this every time I
do it. I always expect a massive explosion and parts flying
everywhere in the
engine room. So far, this hasn’t happened.
chargers have no place on a boat. The theory is to add more
horses with less
weight. I would take the weight over a turbo any day. I
think this is a fine
example of a manufacturer trying to adapt a land engine for
a marine environment
without thinking it through. And, the marine market is not
large enough for a
committed marine diesel engine company. How nice would it be
to have a simple diesel
engine with a compression release lever and a back up
crank start. Kinda like
the tractors of the old days. It’s a conspiracy to make
things more complicated
for sailors. But then again, what do I know.
- Cream Puff
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs
, What would corrode the bearings , lack of oil or the
carbon ?I just
rebuilt the turbo 500 hrs. ago for about a thousand . I
think I would prefer a
naturally aspirated engine. I just got the wastegate free
, but put
it back together went for a spin , still at 2000 rpm tops.
It must be the
turbine , so I will take off and replace/rebuild it. That
will now be about
$2000 in the last 500 hrs. or about $4 per hour. , about the
same as fuel. This
is probably my fault for not running the engine hard enough
. From now on , I
am going to run the snot out of it, no more Mr. Nice Guy !
Thanks all for the