So the gearbox is fine, we can operate the manual furling without problems.
We removed the unit and disconnected it as per Mohammad's instructions.
We managed to remove (pop out) the bottom black end cap (wire end). It was not easy to say the least. For the top end, we are still very much struggling with it. We must be doing it the wrong way. We found those black end caps to be sealed with what looks like white sikaflex, between the white painted aluminium case and a groove in the black end cap.
The inside of the housing was damp, with a few drops od salt water running out and a fair amount of salt cristals.
The "wire end" of the motor stack has the 'brake', an electromagnetic friction disk that I suppose is there to block the rotation while not energised (correct me if I'm wrong). It was a bit rusty.
There is a gear on that end of the shaft that connects to the brake element. That gear would not rotate freely, until I shaked it a bit and it freed up. Maybe a clue as to what's going on inside.
Next is the motor itself and the wires going into it that I guess would be connected to the brushes.
But to access the full motor block, i think we need to remove the top back end cap too and free the motor from the housing. The top black end cap is still resisting our efforts. I don't suppose there is another solution to access the brushes or to remove that end cap?
What is the seal that Amel recommend changing every couple of years? Is it between the end cap and the aluminium housing? Or the bit between the shaft and the black end cap? On our motor it's very rusty (see picture in previous post) and I wouldn't be surprised it's the source of our damp problem. Does Amel provide you with an how-to to change it? I would be interested in any tips at this point.
Amel 54 #122
"Unscrew conventional way", You mean like a jar (black against white) or pop it out once the screws on the white covers are off?
The black end caps unscrew the conventional way.
Thanks all for your input.
We are onto removing the furler motor.
Before we disconnect the electrics, any tips on how to remove the black end caps.
Amel 54 #122
Hi Thomas, I agree with those who suggest checking the brushes. In my experience they are this number one culprit. You have checked the breakers. I have found if I try to furl under too much load the breaker in the port forward locker in the forward cabin pops.
The brushes can stick because of accumulated carbon dust from wear. Remove them and give the motor a blow out with an air gun if available. The contact surface can get very glossy and when they are out I give that area a quick rub with sand paper.
Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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On 15 Oct 2017 20:42, "SV Garulfo svgarulfo@...
The main furler motor stopped working yesterday. We wanted to unfurl the dail and it wouldn't go. The outhaul is ok.
Battery levels are fine (and the engine alternator was still running and producing amps at the time).
The command produces a click sound in what I think is the solenoid.
The circuit breaker marked "mast" in the forward cabin above the centre bookshelf /wardrobe is on (as are the other breakers there for "boom", etc).
Any further advice before I tinker any further? I would check the motor itself but having never done it, I'd rather be cautious with little local help at hand.
Amel 54 #122