So the gearbox is fine, we can operate the manual furling without
We removed the unit and disconnected it as per Mohammad's
We managed to remove (pop out) the bottom black end cap (wire end). It
was not easy to say the least. For the top end, we are still very much
struggling with it. We must be doing it the wrong way. We found those black
end caps to be sealed with what looks like white sikaflex, between the white
painted aluminium case and a groove in the black end cap.
The inside of the housing was damp, with a few drops od salt water
running out and a fair amount of salt cristals.
The "wire end" of the motor stack has the 'brake', an electromagnetic
friction disk that I suppose is there to block the rotation while not
energised (correct me if I'm wrong). It was a bit rusty.
There is a gear on that end of the shaft that connects to the brake
element. That gear would not rotate freely, until I shaked it a bit and it
freed up. Maybe a clue as to what's going on inside.
Next is the motor itself and the wires going into it that I guess would
be connected to the brushes.
But to access the full motor block, i think we need to remove the top
back end cap too and free the motor from the housing. The top black end cap
is still resisting our efforts. I don't suppose there is another solution to
access the brushes or to remove that end cap?
What is the seal that Amel recommend changing every couple of years? Is
it between the end cap and the aluminium housing? Or the bit between
the shaft and the black end cap? On our motor it's very rusty (see picture
in previous post) and I wouldn't be surprised it's the source of our damp
problem. Does Amel provide you with an how-to to change it? I would be
interested in any tips at this point.
Amel 54 #122
"Unscrew conventional way", You mean like a jar (black against white)
or pop it out once the screws on the white covers are off?
The black end caps unscrew the conventional way.
from my iPhone
Thanks all for your input.
We are onto removing the furler motor.
Before we disconnect the electrics, any tips on how to remove the
black end caps.
Amel 54 #122
Hi Thomas, I agree with those who suggest checking the brushes.
In my experience they are this number one culprit. You have checked
the breakers. I have found if I try to furl under too much load the
breaker in the port forward locker in the forward cabin pops.
brushes can stick because of accumulated carbon dust from wear.
Remove them and give the motor a blow out with an air gun if
available. The contact surface can get very glossy and when
they are out I give that area a quick rub with sand paper.
Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On 15 Oct
2017 20:42, "SV Garulfo svgarulfo@...
The main furler motor stopped working yesterday. We wanted to
unfurl the dail and it wouldn't go. The outhaul is ok.
Battery levels are fine (and the engine alternator was still
running and producing amps at the time).
The command produces a click sound in what I think is the
The circuit breaker marked "mast" in the forward cabin above
the centre bookshelf /wardrobe is on (as are the other breakers
there for "boom", etc).
Any further advice before I tinker any further? I would check
the motor itself but having never done it, I'd rather be cautious
with little local help at hand.
Amel 54 #122