Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Distributed vs. Conventional Electrical Systems
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I believe you're supposed to fuse the battery bank as a whole, and not individual batteries. That means one fuse for the whole bank. The reason for this is that some subset of the fuses could blow (one could be slightly more sensitive, or one battery might supply slightly more current under load) and you wouldn't know. You would hope that a cascading failure causes them all to blow, but it won't necessarily. And this is bad because now you have one or more batteries isolated from the rest of the bank, yet you still have power, so you're probably not going to go look under the bunk to check the fuses. With your battery bank now smaller than you think it is, you're likely to discharge it deeper than you intend, and the isolated battery won't be getting charged... quickly all the batteries will be ruined.
I'm a big fan of those battery terminal fuses Bill mentioned. I installed them on my old boat after reading this excellent article (that whole site is fantastic). I'm going to do something similar on my SM as soon as I figure out what the current rating should be; it might be possible to get away with a 300A fuse since they don't blow instantly. As long as we're not leaning on the thruster or windlass switch for too long, I think it would be OK, but I'd love more info about the actual current draw of these systems.
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA
On Wed, Oct 18, 2017 at 12:53 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: