Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Charcoal Filter
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Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good morning Duane,
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I won’t answer your question, but just share my experience. I had a carbon filter “after” the fresh water pump for the same reason - I wish I had been able to put it after the “flushing” valve, as all the water had chlorine removed instead of only the one going to the water maker. I also had a sediment filter “before” the fresh water pump, this was to reduce the maintenance/cleaning on the fresh water pump. It work well, but the water pressure considerably decreased and I had to lower the setting on the D-Square/Pressure Plate significantly running on house power (was never a problem on shore power). Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Sat, 12/2/17, sailor63109@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Charcoal Filter To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, December 2, 2017, 11:48 AM I'm planning on adding a charcoal filter prior to the watermaker to remove chlorine. As long as I'm adding it, it seems reasonable to filter all the fresh water for the boat. Does anyone have an idea how much a 10" carbon block filter (like this: https://airwaterice.com/filters/10-5-micron-carbon-block.html) would reduce the flow and pressure at the faucets in the boat? We have the Marco UP3 4gpm fresh water pump and it seems to do well without the filter. I just don't know how much reduction in flow I'll have with the carbon filter in line. I checked the flow at the kitchen tap at 1.5gpm, but the pump was not running at full speed so it's hard to tell what it could pump with more head loss from the filter. In the forward head it was at 3.0gpm. With both the kitchen and fwd head faucet on the flow from the galley faucet total flow was 3.2gpm. Looking at the Flow vs. Pressure diagram from Marco, the pump is operating toward the high pressure side of the pump curve. Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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