Good morning Duane,

I won’t answer your question, but just share my experience.

I had a carbon filter “after” the fresh water pump for the same reason - I wish I had been able to put it after the “flushing” valve, as all the water had chlorine removed instead of only the one going to the water maker.

I also had a sediment filter “before” the fresh water pump, this was to reduce the maintenance/cleaning on the fresh water pump.
It work well, but the water pressure considerably decreased and I had to lower the setting on the D-Square/Pressure Plate significantly running on house power (was never a problem on shore power).

Sincerely, Alexandre

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On Sat, 12/2/17, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Charcoal Filter
To: amelyachtowners@...m
Date: Saturday, December 2, 2017, 11:48 AM


 









I'm planning on adding a charcoal
filter prior to the watermaker to remove chlorine.  As long
as I'm adding it, it seems reasonable to filter all the
fresh water for the boat.
Does anyone have an idea
how much a 10" carbon block filter (like this: https://airwaterice.com/filters/10-5-micron-carbon-block.html)
would reduce the flow and pressure at the faucets in the
boat?  We have the Marco UP3 4gpm fresh water pump and it
seems to do well without the filter.  I just don't know
how much reduction in flow I'll have with the carbon
filter in line.  
I checked the flow at the
kitchen tap at 1.5gpm, but the pump was not running at full
speed so it's hard to tell what it could pump with more
head loss from the filter.  In the forward head it was at
3.0gpm.  With both the kitchen and fwd head faucet on the
flow from the galley faucet total flow was 3.2gpm.  Looking at the Flow
vs. Pressure diagram from Marco, the pump is operating
toward the high pressure side of the pump
curve.
Duane
Wanderer,
SM#477