Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal
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If some bolts won't come out and have never been removed before it seems likely there has not been water ingress - they're just being uncooperative and can wait for you to get back to your shop for better tools. If you're concerned, I'd treat them with Captain Tolley's (Amazing) Creeping Crack Cure - great product.
I had the embedded plate of the port side aft-most stanchion get wet after the original GPS antenna cable was removed along with the silicon Amel had sealed it with. After many years the rusting plate swelled up and cracked the toe rail open. A few years ago I cut out the old plate, replaced it and re-glassed the toe rail, which now looks like new. This can also be an issue if you rewire the bow lights.
Others have reported swelling in the SM engine-room hatch cover supports (I think BebeBill was the first to post about it). Don't recall any issues reported about the genoa track rail bolts, which I believe you're working on.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris
---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :
Thanks for the advice and information on how you dealt with the bolts on your boat that are tapped into the embedded plates, that was very helpful to me!
I will definitely take Joel’s advice on sealing and using new bolts. I have read about the problems that can occur if water gets to the backing plates and I certainly want to avoid that if at all possible. My thoughts are to remove any of the rail bolts that I can get out easily and replace/reseal those as soon as I can. The remainder that are difficult to remove will have to wait until I get Sueño back to my shop in Florida. I am wondering if there are any options to help prevent water ingress on the fasteners that I cannot easily remove?
Best of luck to you and your project.