Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

James Alton


   Thanks for your input on a possible option to seal the bolts that cannot easily be removed.  I am aware of but have not yet used the Captain Tolleys product,  I will give it a try.  I am certainly all for keeping the water out of these areas.   Sorry to hear about the damage you had on your Port side aft stanchion.

   When I get the boat back to my shop in Florida with the boat, I have a tool that could be very useful in removing the stubborn bolts.  It is an induction heating tool which creates eddy currents in the metal.  The fibreglass is unaffected directly so it should be possible to thermally cycle and hopefully loosen the stubborn bolts without any damage to the fibreglass if I am careful.  I have used the tool to extract more than 6,000 fasteners from different boats and it seems to almost always work.  I will post my results but it will be a while since we will be cruising the Med. for at least one more year.


James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220


On Jun 13, 2018, at 11:49 AM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

If some bolts won't come out and have never been removed before it seems likely there has not been water ingress - they're just being uncooperative and can wait for you to get back to your shop for better tools. If you're concerned, I'd treat them with Captain Tolley's (Amazing) Creeping Crack Cure - great product.

I had the embedded plate of the port side aft-most stanchion get wet after the original GPS antenna cable was removed along with the silicon Amel had sealed it with. After many years the rusting plate swelled up and cracked the toe rail open. A few years ago I cut out the old plate, replaced it and re-glassed the toe rail, which now looks like new. This can also be an issue if you rewire the bow lights.

Others have reported swelling in the SM engine-room hatch cover supports (I think BebeBill was the first to post about it). Don't recall any issues reported about the genoa track rail bolts, which I believe you're working on.

Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :


   Thanks for the advice and information on how you dealt with the bolts on your boat that are tapped into the embedded plates, that was very helpful to me! 

   I will definitely take Joel’s advice on sealing and using new bolts.  I have read about the problems that can occur if water gets to the backing plates and I certainly want to avoid that if at all possible.  My thoughts are to remove any of the rail bolts that I can get out easily and replace/reseal those as soon as I can.    The remainder that are  difficult to remove will have to wait until I get Sueño back to my shop in Florida.  I am wondering if there are any options to help prevent water ingress on the fasteners that I cannot easily remove?

   Best of luck to you and your project.

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 12, 2018, at 8:51 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

My experience was some bolts were easily removed, others really stubborn. After trying BIG screwdriver with square shaft and a wrench on that to add to torque, the ultimate solution for the ones that got "buggered" was to weld a short hex head bolt onto the flat slotted head of the stanchion bolt and put a socket wrench on that - easy peasy removal.

Do take Joel's advice to heart to be SURE you seal the new/replaced bolts totally. This forum has many reports of the embedded carbon steel backing plates corroding and some bursting open - believe me, it's a BIG fiberglass repair job to cut out the old plates and rebuild the fiberglass and gel coat.
Good luck with it!
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris.

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :


  Thanks for the information.  I am curious about what percentage of the bolts you were able to extract from the embedded bar stock?  Also what technique for removal of the fasteners seemed to work the best for you?

   Best of luck with the rest of your hurricane repairs.

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 12, 2018, at 1:54 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Bill

I echo what Joel and others have said but with a few caveats.  I just had about 10 of my stanchions off for repairs following hurricane damage.  Most are attached with the threaded-into-embedded-bar stock method but those in the immediate vicinity of the aft "garage" lazarette had washers and nuts on the back side of the vertical face of the toe-rail and the top horizontal face of the toe-rail.   This included the three most aft stanchions on the starboard stern area.  I didn't have damage on the port side in that area and so I can't speak to that (plus the propane locker is in that area so you'll have to  inspect in that area for nuts if that is where your damage is).  

I had always assumed that the stanchion that has the outboard rail board on it was welded at the top rail and the block was fabricate in-situ but not so.  That stanchion is about 1.5 inches sh ort of going to the top rail and inserts in a hole that is about 75% of the depth of the the wooden block. 


Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
currently completing hurricane repairs at Island Marine, Inc, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico

PS I have a son who is a certified welder so I have been taught a lot about quality welding by him.  The guys that did my stainless repairs were highly skilled and true professionals.  Besides fabricating and installing a 10 ft section of rail and stanchions (done off the boat after tack welding everything on the boat, they weld repaired some broken bales on the underside of the stanchions that retain the jib-sheet-car traveler line.  They did this by removing the stanchion base screws, flexing the lifeline about an inch away from the toe-rail, putting protective metal plating between the fibergla ss and the work piece and TIG welding the bale-to-base, upside down, in close quarters while laying on the deck.  Amazing work.  I can't believe the results of all their work.  Perfect in every way.

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