Katherine and I have removed our engine (and generator) many times (like 6 or 8) with the boat's rigging very safely and without incident. Takes a few hours but is very straightforward.
We start by removing the engine room hatch cover, then disconnect all engine connections, shaft coupling and engine mounts. About 3 hours to do this.
Next we put shackles on the engine's lifting tabs and tie a short stout line between them. This become a lifting "sling" for the halyards and control lines we'll use and those can be slid along the sling to balance the engine. Once the lifting halyard is tensioned it doesn't slip.
Now we rig lifting line #1 by removing the main sheet from it's tang on the mizzen and running another line from the engine sling, up to the tang, over to the genoa sheet turning block and then to the genoa winch. (We actually use the tail end of the genoa sheet for this - plenty strong.)
Now we rig lifting line #2 using the balooner halyard. Run it aft by putting it in front of the topping lift winch, or just use a snatch block made fast anywhere in front of the mast. Then create a "fair" lead to the engine by using another snatch block on the foc d'artimon halyard. You can also supplement that with a snatch block from the main boom. And, for real "belts and suspenders" we sometimes add the engine lifting halyard.
Next we rig an athwartships control line from the sling to the other genoa winch.
Now you just orchestrate a coordinated lift - it helps to have a third person if available. Lifting lines #1 and #2 give you precise fore and aft control and the athwartships line controls right and left. You can also easily nudge the engine a bit as it comes up. As it comes up we stop frequently and snug up the extra halyard so we've always got redundancy.
This is simply how we usually do it - as you get into it you may well need to create variations that may work better for you - there's no strict formula. Just keep at least two lines carrying the weight of the engine.
We usually just lower the engine onto a cockpit seat to do our repair work, but when we do remove it from the boat we like to use the main halyard over the boom end, with another safety. That's a pain because you have to lower the sail, and you can use the balooner cleverly snatched forward to let it go aft without chafing the mast.
Enjoy - this ranks right up there with fun Amel projects and your dockmates will be green with envy ... or call the mental health professionals to intercede.
Craig and Katherine Briggs, SN68, Sangaris
, wrote :
Well i read the horror story of a SM owner who almost sunk his boat while lifting his engine with a stretchy line to replace the silent blocks. Was only saved by the quick reaction of the people of the marina he was in.
In French, but worth a read, if only for the entertainment as it’s quite well written
See 1er Janvier in
I have an Amel School Client that I would like to get some "firsthand" information for.
He is going to be repowering his 54. He is interested in discussing all of the necessary rigging that was utilized if you removed your engine with a halyard.
I apologize for being in the middle of this discussion, but my client is going to be out of reach for about two weeks.
If you have firsthand knowledge of utilizing a halyard to remove an engine, I would like to hear from you. If you prefer direct email, bill"at"amelschool.com
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