Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re caulking of stanchion base

James Alton


   The tool that I own is the Fluxeon 1800 watt model.  You should be able to view it here:

   You can use a lot of different types of coils with this type unit, which can be bought or custom made.  The one I use the most is connected to the Fluxeon by two heavy cables about 3’ long so the coil is on the end of the cables making it access pretty easy.  The coil on my machine is custom in that it has been tuned to work with bronze but it will also heat stainless, steel etc. though perhaps not as efficiently.  The coil is water cooled so it runs completely cool as long as the water is flowing.  While the field is the most powerful if the metal to be heated is placed in the center of a coil the field generated extends out from the coil, not sure of just how far but I could heat a 1/4” bolt to cherry red in perhaps 10 seconds at high power with the coil perhaps 1/2" away from the bolt.   The bronze 2 1/2” #16 wood screws I removed were countersunk into the hull about 1/2” and could be steaming/smoking in about 12 seconds.  The best part was that the field must travel down the bolt since the 2 1/2” screw was heated all of the way to the very end.  Bronze and stainless are not great conductors so it is hard otherwise to heat the fastener down it’s length.  The field penetrates things like fibreglass without heating them but will heat any metals within a short distance from the coil so you need to be aware of what is inside the area you are heating.  I think that there could be some concerns about inducing a current into electrical wiring and perhaps damaging sensitive devices, perhaps one of the electrical experts could verify this.  I have not had any problems to date.

   I am located mid coast Florida when I am not in Nova Scotia.  Let me know if you would be in either area.  The complete unit with the water cooling would be too much to ship around I think.


James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220 

On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:55 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Very cool tool (or hot as the case may be). The video at showed it being used on nuts and stuff that stick out so the tool could enclose it for induction heating.  How did you use it on flat head wood screws that are flush with the hull/deck?  

Also, it's a very expensive tool - is your's for rent (cheap)? :-)

Cheers, Craig SN68

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :


   I had the same results in my search for data as well.  I am thinking that if both the Phillips and the slotted are able to provide enough torque to shear of the bolt that it doesn’t matter too much about which design can provide the most torque.  I think that in the case of installing fasteners in an application where they are likely to seize at some point that using a drive that will allow the application of enough torque to match the strength of the fastener to be something to consider.  Clamping a specimen into a vice and attempting to twist off the head might be one way to conduct this test.  

  It sounds like you know how to deal with stubborn fasteners in steel.  Heat is an invaluable tool in fastener removal in my experience and fortunately there is a cool (no pun intended) way to utilize heat to remove fasteners from fibreglass and wood without damage.  The tool uses inductive heating which creates eddy currents when in close proximity to metals, especially ferrous ones though you can tune it to work well on non ferrous.  To give you some idea of the potential, I was in a real pickle on a huge refastening job which required removal and replacement of more than 6000 #16 x 2 1/2” bronze slotted wood screws.  Initial testing revealed that 50% of the fasteners were breaking off right at the planking to frame interface or the heads were splitting when the torque was applied.  It is a really bad thing to just drill new holes in a wooden boat structurally so I got a really expensive induction tool that allowed me to remove (amazing to me) 100% of the remaining fastenings with no breakages saving the customer a ton of money and new #18 bronze screws went right into the old holes.  The heating tool does not directly affect wood or fibreglass for that matter but the metal can be heated to any temperature you want including glowing bright orange which is not a good idea for a fastener embedded in wood or fibreglass. (grin)  The unit I have allows you to dial down or up the power to exactly what you need and because the field reaches in a ways, the fastener gets heated for it’s whole length in a matter of seconds.  Most marine caulks and resins soften with the application of heat and I have had great luck removing stubborn fasteners using this method.  I am hoping it will work as well on the stuck screws that I expect to find in my stanchions etc.   Here is one example of the induction heating tool  Mine is a bit more advanced but works on the same principles.

  Thanks for the suggestion on the impact driver.

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

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