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I get your point, but I'm really sure the catchment drain will more than compensate for any normal ingress from rain or deck washing or a rare cockpit pooping. Now, understand that I don't choose to sail semi-submerged with a Jordan Drogue like you do! (Not that I'm not totally awed by your accomplishments)
You're totally correct that to be totally bullet proof in life threatening conditions one might choose the weatherstripping and the maintenance aggravation and dark belowdecks that go with it, notwithstanding the miniscule risk of a minor inconvenience of having to mop up some water after a hurricane whilst underway. I think it's not too inaccurate to say most Amels have never sailed in furious conditions where they've gotten their cockpits swamped, as, I guess from your posting, that you have.
---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :
If your cockpit gets full of water you will get water below and will cause the catchment to overflow.
SM 376 Kimberlite
On Sun, Oct 21, 2018 at 01:21 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
Not really, Bill.
1 - the gap (at least on my boat) is barely 2mm so only a minuscule amount of water ever gets in.
2 - on my boat there's hardly ever water on the door, The most is when I wash the cockpit.
3 - Amel plumbed the catchment below the door to readily drain into the bilge sump - no standing water for mold and mildew. Plus the catchment is wide open for airing out, especially at night when the hatch is up.
4 - I used to get much more moldy "yuck" in the catchment with the weather strip - now I simply flush it out now and then and it's fresh as a daisy.
So, IMHO, there's no downside to not having the weatherstripping. The up side is that the door material, be it plywood or plexiglass stays perfect with no persnickety care with silicone or worrying about bent weatherstrip, etc.
There's more than one way to skin a cat,
Cheers, Craig SN68
---In amelyachtowners@..., <brouse@...> wrote :
Craig, no weather strip means that all water running down the companionway door will run inside the boat and inside that bulkhead. I would really advise against that unless moisture, mold and mildew is acceptable.
The most common reason for black marks on the Companionway Door is that the wood gets damaged by UV and causes the rubber weather strip to stick as the door is lowered. In my opinion, the best treatment for the teak veneer door is to light hand-sand it and treat it with teak oil (at least every 6 months in the tropics). Pay attention to the rubber weather strip and do not allow it to fold under itself when lowering the door. If you have varnished the door (don't recommend), or teak-oiled it, and it is in good condition, AND, the rubber is still sticking to the door and folding under: Use a light coat of silicone spray on the door (Not WD40). You should also use the silicone spray on the door and top tracks and slides.
And here's what I found a few years ago, it also works great.
Remove the weatherstripping and don't replace it.
You can keep the plywood or switch to plexiglass to amazingly brighten things below. No weatherstripping means no scratched or worn door panel.
Cheers, Craig, SN68
, <karkauai@...> wrote :
Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.
Here's the gasket material I found that works fine. It's enough to do two replacements.
My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.
Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.
No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.
Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.
Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.
Do you have any material left?
It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.
I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous
SV Ora Pai SM 406