Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

James Alton


   Many thanks for the confirmation of the drain holes for the companionway slider box being part of the original construction.  When I first got my Amel,  I noticed that a small amount of water, perhaps a quart that would collect in the bilge area under the steps if I was not careful to avoid spraying the compaionway slider while washing the boat. ( The licker seal on my boat currently is in poor shape and needs replacement by the way)  I investigated the inside of the slider box and initially it appeared to be sealed but after some careful cleaning I discovered two small drain holes around one quarter of an inch that were completely plugged with dirt that had collected over the years exactly as you described might be the case.  The holes were drilled at the extreme outboard ends of the slider box and angle down through the engine room bulkhead, exactly the position needed to drain all of the water from the box.   Once those holes were cleared, the leakage from spraying the compaionway slider completely went away despite my bad licker seal.  I will soon replace the licker seal and make keeping those drain holes open a part of my normal maitenance.  Thank you Amel for installing the huge cockpit drains and also for installing the sliding companionway door instead of using drop boards!

All the best,

Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 10/22/18 20:14 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?


Hello proud owners of AMEL dry boats,

from Sharki to AMEL 54, the companionway hatch slides into a wooden "box" that collects the potential water that could flow between the rubber "licker" seal and the wooden hatch. This box is sealed and drains into the engine room bilge, unless the draining hole is stuffed with dust and small particles.
You can get access to the bottom of this box if you remove the wooden board at the bottom of the hatch (secured with a few screws). Then you can lift the hatch up to hitting the dodger, and have a look inside (and clean it).

So..., very little chance for this water to flood the vessel.
What if your cockpit is flooded by a wave?

When the SM was in production, we made once a test of draining the cockpit (thanks to the cockpit drains). We clogged all possible holes in the cockpit, plugged both cockpit drains and filled it up with water u p to the backseats tops. Guess how much time it took to drain the cockpit?
Answer in two days.

All that said, it is good to keep the licker seal (originally a RENAULT cars part for opening windows) in good condition. I'm not sure Maud can still supply those...


On Monday, October 22, 2018, 4:07:19 PM GMT+2, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi James,

Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68

---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

&n bsp;  You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  

Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?


As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway be cause we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

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