Yes, removing the bow pulpit is tough - far better to avoid that and, having done it both ways, frankly, it doesn't make the job that much easier.
I was able to remove the old wiring without removing the pulpit by just destructively ripping it out a few inches at a time, jerking the wire up and down as I went. I needed to clean up and enlarge the hole at the bottom some with an electric drill as I went along and got a needle nose pliers to grab the small bits. I also used a steel electrical fish tape to ream out the old silicone Amel had used inside of the pulpit tubing - really difficult. Then used the fish tape and to run the new wire.
It's one of those frustrating jobs that you just have to keep at until the wire and silicone finally give up.
Check to see if you've got any rust stains on the locker walls where the wires exit. If so there's been some water seeping in where the wire enters the bow pulpit and that is rusting out the carbon steel plate embedded in the toe rail for the pulpit bolts. It may eventually swell up and bulge out or crack the toe rail. Be sure to really seal off the new wires.
After you do the starboard side you'll have the technique down and you can tackle the port side, which will surely not be far behind in deteriorating.
Good luck with it!
Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris in Ft Pierce, FL
---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote :
In investigating my starboard nav light failure I've encountered deteriorating wiring. I suspect I will have to remove the pulpit to thread the new wire, but was hoping someone had a miraculous and novel technique for leaving it in place.
Tom Kleman, SV L'ORIENT SM2K 422, Puerto Velero Colombia