Re: Re- port bow locker floor

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Tom,

I'd add three suggestions to Bill's excellent post:

A.) put a prefabricated access panel in at least one side for easy access to the chain locker in the future
B.) check the condition of your hawse pipe, which is galvanized iron. The anchor chain wears off the galvanizing and the pipe rusts - mine rusted right through. Easier to replace when you're doing the floors, too. I used Schedule 80 CPVC.
3.) Consider a penetrating epoxy like Git-Rot for the forward side of the watertight bulkhead in the chain locker area, possibly in addition to glass if it's really compromised like Bill Kinney's - mine was still in very solid condition and I decided the Git-Rot would be sufficient.

Good luck with it.
Craig Briggs SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

Tom,

1) thickness of marine plywood for floor ?
For this span, 1/2 inch ply should be fine.

2) My chainlocker bulkhead wall seems Ok. Precise name of product to seal it ? 
For the bulkhead, we just ground off all compromised wood, then used polyester resin and glass cloth to cover it. It's a pretty tough environment. 

3) Glass in the seams of new floor ? The whole floor ? The bulkhead too ?
Definitely glass cloth over the WHOLE floor, both sides!  Not only will it seal and protect the wood from water and mechanical damage, it makes the whole structure a lot stiffer.  And definitely glass cloth to tab the new floor to the hull.  Do not butt the plywood tight against the hull; leave a bit of a gap to avoid making a hard spot.

4) starboard floor seemed Ok. Just go ahead and do that too ?
I would.

When you remove the old floor, be sure to leave a fiberglass shelf around the edge for the new one to sit on.  Trying to build that from underneath would truly be a nightmare.

This was one of those jobs that I kept looking at and saying... I'll do that.  I know fiberglass, it's not hard. Karen insisted that we hire someone.  Watching him come up out of the locker in a full suit, and respirator, covered from head to toe in fiberglass grinding dust, I realized once again she is smarter than I am.

Here is a detailed process for what was done for our floors:
  • Cut around about 2 to 3 inches in from the hull.
  • Pull out all of the old plywood.
  • Solvent wipe, and then grind hull where the new tabbing will go and the top of "shelf" to ensure adhesion of new parts.
  • Make a template for each side.
  • Cut out core material (plywood, foam, whatever)
  • Check fit.
  • Glass both sides of panel core. (Doing the bottom is a lot easier now than after it is installed!) Be sure to seal the edges of the plywood all around.
  • Check fit.
  • Solvent wipe and grind the new glass on the bottom of panel where it will rest on the old floor tabbing.
  • Check fit.
  • Use thickened epoxy to bed the panel down on the shelf. Let cure.
  • Tab the top side of the panel to the hull.
  • Sand smooth.
  • Apply gelcoat--if desired.
Pretty much everything was done with polyester resin.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Cape Eleuthera, Eleuthera Is., Bahamas

---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote :

I wanted to thank all of you for the help. I’m planning on incorporating many/most of the ideas put forward. If I was in the E Carib I know where I could find competent help; Im headed for shelter Bay, Panama so it might be just us (again).

Questions (because Im ordering raw materials for this project from Miami to meet me in Shelter Bay).

1) thickness of marine plywood for floor ?
2) My chainlocker bulkhead wall seems Ok. Precise name of product to seal it ?
3) Glass in the seams of new floor ? The whole floor ? The bulkhead too ?
4) starboard floor seemed Ok. Just go ahead and do that too ?

Bill Rouse (if youre reading this)- noted that your biz is booming and you survey many SMs. Is this the first thing you look for ? And interested in your remediation preferences on this issue.

Thanks Much

Tom and Kirstin
SV L’ORIENT
Green Island Panama
SM2K 422

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