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I have addressed this before but in a different context so I will do it again. Too late for you but it may save others. On a previous boat I had a heat exchanger salt water pipe rupture and dump gallons of salt water over the alternator. It was late and I was near my mooring so on the basis that fresh water had to be better than salt I, in situ, poured multiple jugs of fresh water over the alternator. While still wet I then emptied a can of CRC 556 into the alternator and went home. 5 years later it was still functioning perfectly and was still doing so when I sold the boat. I now use a marine variant of the same product and regularly spray it into and around my electric motors, alternators, starter motors and electrical connections. Stops corrosion and maintains connections and protects the electric motors from salt air.
On 25 February 2019 at 03:02 "ralph.heilig" <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:
I know this Problem. My Engine (D3-110 , 1600 Hours, 2008) has the same "Problem" between 1.000 and 1.200 rpm. It has it since many years and so far no Problem. As I noticed It's exactly when it wants to open the Turbo. So I think It's at low rpm and cold engine, when the Turbo opens and closes.
My experience after after 1600 hours D3:
1) I had to Change the raw water pump ( after 1.500 hours) - leaking and sea water running over the Alternator( which is stupidly mounted under the raw water pump) - so also a new Alternator
2) I had a faulty oil pressure Sensor - Error was" low oil pressure" - tested and it was only a faulty oil sensor ( this happend after 80 hours nonstop motoring on flat see - 4 days nonstop - Maybe the sensor stuck due to this) Since my Engine is 2008 - there are differne oil sensors - the Electric Connection of the "actual" D3 oil sensor does no more fit-I found one on eBay that fitted (Part Nr. 863169).
Other Problems not regarding the Engine:
3) 3 (!) Mastervolt Mastercharger - 2 x 40AMP, 1 x 100 AMP - every two year one dies....
4) Replacement of the Freshwater Pump (after 8 year) due to pressure leaking - Discussed with AMEL- they said the pump is no more avaliable and I should go for a Jabsco (V-Flow). Now working since one year without problem- mounting was easy.
5) Cooling Unit of the Refrigerator (after 9 years) - expensive repair 2.200 Euro..
6) Bilge Pump no more pumping - also after 9 years - Easy repair with the Marina ZZ Repair Kit (Setback Flap)
7) Climma Display LED - I had to replace 2 LED Display Chips ( 5€ one ) - The whole Display would cost About 200 - 300 Euro - but my Display just lost one or two Segments on the 7-segment Display...
8) The Hydaulic Gangway never worked perfect. somtimes I have to press x times the remote an shake the Gangway manually to get it working- Problem since day 1....
9) Mainfurler Gearbox - oil leaking - yet not fixed…
Greetings from Sardegna,
SY Santa Isabella
AMEL 54 #144