Re: Prop shaft bearing
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Hi Rainer and I must admit to being a little confused, which is not at all uncommon for me. When you say “Dripping Volvo shaft seal” are you referring to the stuffing box in the engine room where the propeller shaft exits the engine room? You mention” Volvo shaft seal”. Did you replace the conventional greased flax stuffing box the boat was delivered with when new with something from Volvo?
If you have an original and 30++ year old Cutless/stern bearing, it could cause the problems you mention. When you grab the propeller and forcibly move it up and down and then side to side, is there a lot of movement? When you look at where the shaft comes out, behind the propeller, can you see the black nitral rubber that is inside the bronze sleeve around the propeller shaft?
Perhaps some photos of the shaft inside the engine room and the engine room shaft seal as well as the cutless/stern tube bearing would be helpful.
Again, if only the cutless/stern bearing has failed, you do not need to move the engine at all. Replacing the cutless/stern bearing is done entirely from the outside of the boat.
JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE
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From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, March 2, 2019 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing
Really sorry to hear about the vibrations and the new oil leak. I am not sure that a failed stern tube bearing would cause the amount of vibration that you are reporting, especially under sail? I have run a boat once with a completely failed stern tube bearing and while it was noisy the vibration was not terrible. Did you try pulling and pushing sideways on the shaft to see if there was any noticeable play when you checked the prop? Do you know if the balance was checked on the 25CM pulley that you installed? You might also check the run out on the shaft near the coupling with a last word type indicator while rotating the shaft by hand. Or based on how bad the vibration is you might just place a straight edge close to the shaft near the coupling and rotate it. The run out might be bad enough that you can see the gap opening and closing as the shaft is rotated. The only other thing that I can think of would be that the faces of the sides of the pulley you installed were not perfectly parallel. You could check this by removing the coupling bolts, checking the alignment and then rotating the pulley 180 degrees and measuring again, you should get the same readings of course. I hope that you find the problem, best of luck.
Thanks to the Sharki #1 owner who reports that he has never had vibrations with his Amel alternator setup. I am very anxious to set this up on Sueno ahead of the Atlantic crossing.