Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS

Yes Dan it most certainly does. I had to remove my windlass at one stage and that bolt sheered off. I put the windlass back in place (temporarily) without that bolt and it very noticeably flexed the deck in use. I drilled the stud out and replaced it with a through bolt. That flange is essential.



SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 07 March 2019 at 11:29 "Dan Wilcox via Groups.Io" <dwilcox123@...> wrote:

Hearing how the bolt went through a tab on the pipe, could the explanation be that the galvanized pipe provide extra rigidity to reduce the deck from flexing when the windless was pulling up an anchor?

Thanks, Dan
Feierabend SM#86

On Wednesday, March 6, 2019, 2:25:31 PM PST, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:

On my Santorin the original pipe didn't have a tab on top. The pipe end was cut at an angle to be flush with the underside of the deck and simply glassed to the bottom of the deck with a fillet. It was, indeed, just stubbed about an inch below the deck locker floor with a glass filtet on top of the floor to seal it - nothing on the underside. Flanges will be really tricky because (on the Santorin) the pipe angles forward toward the bow as it goes down from the windlass so you'd have to get the flange angles just right. I should think just fiberglass fillets top and bottom, like Amel's original would do the trick.  I plugged up the hawse hole and top of the pipe with some rags inside some plastic wrap to keep resin and filet material from seeping down the inside of the pipe.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris



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