toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Dessalator.com has the pressure switch for 156.26€ without VAT. Part number 100027.
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
Here’s what I have found.
I installed a bypass hose on the product water so I could divert the water before it went into the tank.
I removed the wires off the pressure sensor and everything came back to life. I ran it till the green “good water light came on then rotated the pressure knob until indicator was just in the green. Product water flowed. I tested the water every 3-4 mins and
quality slowly improved. After about 15 mins it was down around 315 on my TDS meter so diverted it into the tank. We ran for 45 mins with no problem while keeping a good eye on the pressure gauge. We have run it 4 times since then and the only issue I have
had is around the hour mark it will suddenly shut off and it is always when we are not watching, hopefully I will catch it one time.
I assume I should get 60 liters of product water per hour?
SV Ora Pai
One more thought, having lost much hair getting my water maker to work after new membranes:
Have you sampled and tested the “fresh” water output just before the red light comes on? If it is too salty, the switch will trip and shut it down. I had this problem because of incorrectly installed O-rings with the membrane. I am assuming new
O-rings were installed with the new membranes?
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine, Florida
On Mar 24, 2019, at 9:36 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...
Some random observations:
Take a look at the attached PDF, which is a page from my book.
- The pressure knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise when flushing.
- It is possible that you have some sort of failure with the
- You should not have any
waterflow showing in the glass
waterflow indicator when flushing with freshwater. I think it is possible that something is causing freshwater to pass through the tube and V shaped Brine seals to the product water pathway. The possible causes
could be damaged V shaped Brine seals, something wrong in the assembly of the membranes, tubes and end caps, or possibly something wrong with the bypass solenoid.
- The most common "Red Light" shutdown is because the high pressure sensor senses too high pressure. This is commonly caused by a defective pressure gauge. In other
words, the actual pressure is higher than 50 bar and the sensor shuts the system down. I was supporting a client yesterday with this defective pressure gauge issue. I had him turn the pressure valve to about 1/2" short of the green. His system did not shut
down and began making about 60 liters per hour.
- Flow indication when the pressure valve is completely turned anticlockwise and flushing with freshwater may be an indication of incorrect orientation of the tube end
caps causing the shaped brine seal to be ineffective i.e. oriented the wrong way. It might also be caused by the hoses connected in reversed locations.
Be very careful because even the slightest reverse pressure (1-2 BAR) through the membranes will damage the membranes and cause them to be ineffective.
By reverse pressure, I mean water flowing backwards from the product water output back into the membrane tubes. Unfortunately some people refer to the process of freshwater flushing as "backwashing." It is not. Freshwater flushing flushes
the entire saltwater pathway and only the outside of the membranes.
I hope this helps.
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
<Dessalator Membrane Orientation and HP hose connections.pdf>
Hi Eric, yes I removed both hoses from the membranes and I got water out.
We turned the knob increasing the pressure slowly. We were just in the green and we had product water start to flow, however we had looked away from the gauge when everything stopped and the warning light came on. We can fresh water flush and water flows thru
and we have 10 liters per hour on the flow meter.
If I understand you correctly you disconnected both hoses from the membranes and
the unit still went to the red alarm position. I assume you had no low pressure showing on the gauge, is that correct?
Or do you have low pressure in the green but the alarm light is on .
With the hoses disconnected from the membranes did water come out of either hose?
I went through the entire system last system with a problem it even stumped the
USA Desalator rep.
I do have the 160, however, I might be able to help if you would reply.
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
On Behalf Of Alan Grayson
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 7:21 PM
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
Hi All, I started my water maker for the first time and I have a problem.
i put new membranes in and flushed it with fresh water for about 15 mins. I ran sea water thru it for about 5mins then started to slowly increase the pressure while checking for leaks. Once the needle was in the green it started producing product water but
after about 1 min the warning light came on and now nothing runs. I was using the 24v side. I released the pressure knob and even unhooked the pressure lines then tried again. The red warning light came straight on. I reset the 24V breaker in the engine bay
and checked the 2 fuses in the control box in the lazarette. I then tried the 220v side and had the same result.
does anyone have any ideas?
SV Ora Pai, SM 406
Cat Cay Bahamas