What he does in the video works, but there is too much to say about what is wrong with this video.
I have 3 pages in my Amel book devoted to this job, but if you follow these steps you will do a good job.
1. Fabricate the replacement Bonding Strap with about 1/8" thick copper stock about 2" wide.
2. Empty as much water as possible using the manual bilge pump until it sucks air.
3. Place a towel over the C-Drive and engine angle iron frame to protect it from water.
4. Remove the two wires to the Gray Water Float Switch Assembly.
5. Pull the gray colored Float Switch Assembly toward aft out of its clamps and up placing the wet end in a
bucket and handing it to crew on deck. Have crew clean it & continue next step.
6. Pull each of the pump hoses up one at a time while using degreaser/cleaner to clean each as you pull it
out. Then place the end of the hose pointed up and the hose to the side.
7. Using a wet/vacuum, suck the remaining water & sludge from the bottom, until totally dry
8. Remove the 30mm stainless steel nut on the stainless steel keel stud with a 30mm socket connected to
extensions totaling 3 feet or 1 meter. You will need a Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool (pictured) to pick up
the nut and pieces of Bonding Strap.
9. Remove the pieces of old Bonding Strap, There is also a small "flat head" machine screw holding the
Bonding Strap against the forward port side of the bilge sump (I did not replace it). At the top of the old
Bonding Strap, cut the loose strap end, leaving only the bundle of soldered wires, wrapped with copper.
10. Install the new Bonding Strap. PEARL: Use masking tape around the nut to hold it in the socket.
11. Locate the soldered bundle of about 12 wires and drill a 9mm hole through the bundle and bolt it to the
top of the new Bonding Strap, using an 8mm brass or bronze bolt/nut to secure it in place.