Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE:[Amel Keel

arvaloet <arvaloet@...>

I have recently had a look at the keel bolts inside the water tank. I
could only inspect some of them since the rest of the bolts are, I
think, under the fidge/freezer beneath the dining table settee (I
would welcome suggestions as to how to remove this fridge. Of the
bolts I did inspect one of them is showing rust stains seeping through
the gelcoat which covers all bolts. Since they are stainless steel I
am quite worried about this issue.

Any comments?
If I were to have this checked professionaly, who would do it in the Med?

SM 146 Ingot

--- In, "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@...> wrote:

This comes from Joel Potter the boat owner not Joel Potter in any
capacity regarding my
professional work with my colleagues at AMEL. Sorry, my lawyer
insists on this.

Sorry for the delay on this post. Clients intervened and I
misplaced it. Just today I
was reminded by a patiently waiting friend that I had yet to post it.

The most important thing to consider when repairing/replacing the
keel coatings are as

Select a well known and respected brand name for all the component
elements and DON'T MIX
any part with components from another manufacturer. This is
particularly important when
employing solvents/cleaners, thinners, bulking material, catylizers,
and fairing
compounds. To do so is almost always a recipe for disaster. Use
epoxy materials. Do not
use polyester.

Read the instructions. Read them again. And again…Instructions are
there for a reason
and each brand has it's own quirks. Be sure to understand the
entire process completely
from start to finish before you begin. Just good common sense here.

When considering to repair or entirely replace the coatings on the
external iron ballast,
consider age as well as condition. Ten to fifteen years, on the
average, seems to be the
life span for the epoxy coatings in warm Caribbean water. Colder
water is not as harsh an
environment so you can count on a few more years generally.

Buy a small amount of epoxy and solvent of the brand of your choice.
Sand a well attached
area of the present keel coating to remove the bottom
paint/antifouling only. Heavily
saturate a shop towel with the chosen solvent and secure it firmly
to the exposed keel
coatings. Keep an eye on it for spontaneous combustion in hot/humid
areas (ask me how I
know this!) Mix a small batch of epoxy and spread it on the present
keel coatings (after
sanding off the anti-fouling) fairly thick about 3"x 3" x ¼". Have
a beer. Have another
one. After the solvent has evaporated and the epoxy hardened, look
for bubbling or
lifting around the edges. Go home for the evening.

Next day, scrape firmly on the solvent soaked area and the new epoxy
"patch". Are the
original coatings solid? Any evidence of loss of adhesion or
bubbling? If so you have
two choices. Try the same process with another brand of replacement
materials or remove
ALL the coatings on the iron keel before replacing it all. If your
coatings are near the
end of their life expectancy, this last suggestion is usually for
the best overall

However you remove the original keel coatings remember, ALL THIS
toxic exposure suit,
and an appropriate respirator, eye protection and foam ear plugs.
Gloves are essential.

All of the epoxy coatings that have proven to work effectively have
two things in common
in the preparation phase of the iron keel. These are:

1. The keel should be sanded/grinded/soda or sand blasted until ONLY
BRIGHT SHINY iron is exposed. No residual coatings or corrosion
is to be tolerated. The iron should look like silver.

2. From the time the iron keel is prepared to it's bright shiny
state, you
have at best a matter of a very few minutes to get the
primer/sealer coat
OF THIS REPAIR. If you wait more than a couple of minutes, rust
begins at a microscopic level where you can't see it, but it is
there. This
will cause the spread of this rust/oxidation once the iron is
coated and
anti-fouled and will greatly reduce the life of the repair. I
had one
unfortunate acquaintance who sand blasted his keel in the afternoon
and coated it the next morning. It was good material from
and it all, and I mean ALL came unattached in three weeks time. I
always prepare and coat an area of about 1' X 3" before moving
on to
the next section of keel.

I digress here but this is important. Your AMEL keel is IRON. Not
STEEL. There is quite
a difference.

I try to use all materials, including bottom paint/anti-fouling from
one manufacturer.
It's easier to get a satisfactory resolution to any eventual problem
when all fingers
point in one direction.

Good luck. Don't forget the respirator…

Joel Potter
AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS

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