Re: [Amel] Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE:[Amel Keel
Removing the freezer is straight forward except for one long screw. That screw is at the bottom rear starboard side of the freezer unit and keeps it form tilting forward in a rough seas i guess. The only way to access the screw is through the floor boards in the aisle. Remove both boards and get your head down there and you can see the freezer insulation. To the rear of the space and against the frame work for the counter there is a screw that is virtually impossible to access. To keep it from backing out, there is a small block of wood that has to be removed. Then you can see, with a mirror, the head of the screw which goes form port to starboard through the frame of the freezer into the frame of the counter. My hands are large and could not handle the screw driver in such confined quarters and had to get a small person to turn out the screw. Once it is removed and all the other screws and compressor electrical connections are detached, the unit lifts out easily. Then you have normal access to the water tank below and the bolts for the keel.toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Hope this helps.
Bill Rahmig, SM 72 Leonore of Sark
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 12/23/2008 6:57:14 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE:[Amel Keel
I have recently had a look at the keel bolts inside the water tank. I
could only inspect some of them since the rest of the bolts are, I
think, under the fidge/freezer beneath the dining table settee (I
would welcome suggestions as to how to remove this fridge. Of the
bolts I did inspect one of them is showing rust stains seeping through
the gelcoat which covers all bolts. Since they are stainless steel I
am quite worried about this issue.
If I were to have this checked professionaly, who would do it in the Med?
SM 146 Ingot
--- In email@example.com, "Joel F. Potter"
capacity regarding my
professional work with my colleagues at AMEL. Sorry, my lawyerinsists on this.
misplaced it. Just today I
was reminded by a patiently waiting friend that I had yet to post it.keel coatings are as
follows:elements and DON'T MIX
any part with components from another manufacturer. This isparticularly important when
employing solvents/cleaners, thinners, bulking material, catylizers,and fairing
compounds. To do so is almost always a recipe for disaster. Useepoxy materials. Do not
use polyester.there for a reason
and each brand has it's own quirks. Be sure to understand theentire process completely
from start to finish before you begin. Just good common sense here.Sorry…
external iron ballast,
consider age as well as condition. Ten to fifteen years, on theaverage, seems to be the
life span for the epoxy coatings in warm Caribbean water. Colderwater is not as harsh an
environment so you can count on a few more years generally.Sand a well attached
area of the present keel coating to remove the bottompaint/antifouling only. Heavily
saturate a shop towel with the chosen solvent and secure it firmlyto the exposed keel
coatings. Keep an eye on it for spontaneous combustion in hot/humidareas (ask me how I
know this!) Mix a small batch of epoxy and spread it on the presentkeel coatings (after
sanding off the anti-fouling) fairly thick about 3"x 3" x ¼". Havea beer. Have another
one. After the solvent has evaporated and the epoxy hardened, lookfor bubbling or
lifting around the edges. Go home for the evening."patch". Are the
original coatings solid? Any evidence of loss of adhesion orbubbling? If so you have
two choices. Try the same process with another brand of replacementmaterials or remove
ALL the coatings on the iron keel before replacing it all. If yourcoatings are near the
end of their life expectancy, this last suggestion is usually forthe best overall
solution.STUFF IS POISON. IT WILL
MAKE YOU WISH YOU HAD DIED IF IT DOESN'T KILL YOU. Wear a plastictoxic exposure suit,
and an appropriate respirator, eye protection and foam ear plugs.Gloves are essential.
two things in common
in the preparation phase of the iron keel. These are:state, you
have at best a matter of a very few minutes to get theprimer/sealer coat
on the bright metal. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENTthere. This
will cause the spread of this rust/oxidation once the iron iscoated and
anti-fouled and will greatly reduce the life of the repair. Ihad one
unfortunate acquaintance who sand blasted his keel in the afternoonInternational
and it all, and I mean ALL came unattached in three weeks time. Ion to
the next section of keel.STEEL. There is quite
a difference.one manufacturer.
It's easier to get a satisfactory resolution to any eventual problemwhen all fingers
point in one direction.
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