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Thank’s Bill and Mohammed,
I spoke to Nicholas at Dessalator who confirmed they have it. Trouble I have is doing a bank transfer from the boat, bank need to text me before doing transfer and I can’t get that to work from US Bank to UK cell phone.
I found “Advance Yacht Systems” in UK who have the part and actually get it from Dessalator. Easy payment with them (PayPal and Credit Card) and as I have crew joining from UK next week can ship to them to carry here.
Thank’s again for your help. Could not imagine having to use the small button on the side of the solenoid for too long. Nice though to have that as a backup. Also when the solenoid coil burnt it blew one of the control board fuses. I assume that is a protection to not burn up the control board.
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
On Jul 3, 2019, at 16:03, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...
. They have it and can ship. There are different models. Include a photo.
On Wed, Jul 3, 2019, 1:35 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <firstname.lastname@example.org
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.
Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...
In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches.
If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing.
Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."
I hope this helps you. Good luck.
On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...
Dear Amel Group Friends
I’m asking you guys if someone had the
same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:
I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V
Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that
runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this
wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump
directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still
The light does only switching OFF when I’m
switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative
BTW: I cannot see any corrosion on
the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's
only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).
- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC
- Are there any longterm experiences what
can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed?
- What is the affect and result of a
longterm neg. vs pos. leak?
It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current
on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with
P.S. I still not fully understand how
these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse
- and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
[Edited Message Follows]
I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.
It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim. Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.
Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?
SM2K #400 Brava