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I have used hydraulic food grade hoses with swage on fittings with great success for the last 7 years rated at 5000 psi. You can get them at almost any hydraulic shop .
I also had them make spare hoses for the transmission cooler and the engine disk brake.
If you have a hose running between the copper propane line and the stove, I would check it. I was lucky to check mine (photo attached) I now have a hydraulic hose with interior steel braid.
It could have been a disaster.
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2019 1:46 AM
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator HP Hoses
Thank you for your valuable input. I just have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and it stopped.
The big question is: HOW LONG?
Today after your comment I have checked the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I have exactly the same problem what you described.
I will certainly order new hoses as well…. Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait for parts down here.
What is your estimation from experience how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure?
Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl
Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia
MMSI: 269322000 , Call Sign: HBY3811
It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.
Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant. I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.
I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.
Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.
If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room.
On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry@...> wrote:
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.
On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches.
If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing.
Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."
I hope this helps you. Good luck.
On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
Dear Amel Group Friends
I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:
I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on.
The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire.
BTW: I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).
- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor?
- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed?
- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?
It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?
P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
[Edited Message Follows]
I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.
It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim. Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.
Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?
SM2K #400 Brava