I’m sure one can reverse engineer most any light, but, FWIW, the Series 44 is described on Aquasignal’s web site as being a deck mounted light. The 34 series is listed as side mount.
Tom Peacock SM 240 Aletes
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Sep 7, 2019, at 6:51 PM, Ryan Meador < ryan.d.meador@...> wrote: Hi Dan,
I replaced the wiring from the lights, through the bow pulpit, all the way back to the port deck locker. This let me get the length of the wire exactly correct. I was having wiring issues anyways.
The routing of the wire inside the light housing took a little thought, but wasn't difficult. I ended up bringing it in through the cut-out at the bottom of the housing. The supplied connectors are very large, but designed to fit snugly inside the housing. Sliding the two halves of the rubber boot together took a few tries before it was overlapped to my satisfaction. I think it will be quite waterproof and I don't anticipate ever needing to take it apart for the life of the light -- that's the joy of LEDs.
One of the mounting screw holes that matched the existing light fixtures was covered by the electronics module inside the housing, so I had to carefully remove it, secure the nuts on the back with tape, mount the housing, reinstall the electronics, and then pull the tape out. It sounds more complicated than it was.
I went with the white fixtures, primarily because I thought they'd look better on the boat and are more unique. They may also stay cooler in the sun which should prolong the lifespan of the electronics inside.
Ryan and Kelly SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA Thanks Ryan, that's very helpful.
No issues with the wiring? One of buyer commented on the wiring connections that came with the package.
Also, did you go with the black or white fixtures?
Thanks and regards, Dan and Lori Carlson on SM #387, sv BeBe
I recently made the change to the series 44. The mounting plate is not exactly the same -- you can't use the neat little slide on/off bracket. Two of the screw holes do line up, though. I drilled a third one for extra security, and I put cap nuts on the inside (the side facing the genoa furler) so nothing gets snagged on them. It was a pretty quick and painless upgrade, once I had the right parts:
M4 screws, 16mm long, hex drive (3 per light) washers for M4, 4.3mm ID, 9mm OD (I think 6 per light) M4 cap nuts (3 per light)
All in 316 stainless, of course. I sourced them from McMaster.
Ryan and Kelly SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
|
