Re: Desperate plea for an alternator/charging problem - Amel Euros 41, 1976, MD21a engine


John Clark
 

Hi Andrew,
  no pity...you are on the boat and I am at work  ;)     As to the alternator questions On the TMD22 there are two alternators...one is 12V for the engine and starter battery, the other is 24v for the house battery bank...which on the SM powers the windlass and other loads.   

If the 24v alternator is not working that could explain the lack of power at the windlass.  Sorry the pictures of the morass of wiring isn't helpful to me....but I have a mulimeter in my pocket right now so if you send me a plane ticket I could perhaps help more effectively in person.  ;)

Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Brunswick GA

On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 8:37 AM Andrew Eaves <andyeaves@...> wrote:
Hello all,

PLEASE HELP AND TAKE PITY :)

After 38 knots in the bay last night I am 'keen as hell' to get out of here! Apparently in 4 days next week, mother nature is going to give us a re-run for a couple of days, which may at least save us the hassle of handwashing our clothes if we put them in a large bucket before hand!

So something is amiss with our charging system, as such the windlass can't retrieve the anchor and neither can the mrs by hand. Batteries are shot and I have limited ah till I replace. I suspect regulator diode issue but please read and chip in with thoughts/experiences.

It's an Amel Euros 41, 1976, MD21a engine.
It had two alternators when I purchased the boat a couple of months ago, but pictures show only one now as of today. I've started stripping dodgy batteries and the discovered dodgy alternator to simplify the matter.
The picture shows what I believe is the OEM design, a single alternator connected to the starter.
The upper alternator was faulty, (bracket showing) tested at 2 places as it happens. I 'think' this has an external regulator and no idea what the relay would be for given that also shown in the pictures.

I actually don't need at this stage the upper broken 2nd alternator repaired and in the situation. With solar/wind and shore power when connected, it should have enough charge, providing I don't need to crank the engine diagnosing other issues, but that's another day. Being in the Greek islands for now, we are never going to be far from land, if this changes, I'll readdress moving forward.

So thoughts;

- Is there a way to confirm the diode block, if I am correct pointing at that is faulty? 
- If found to be the problem are there local fixes/alternatives suitable for a wiring monkey at best as my surname is not Faraday? I understand the Volvo part which is sealed is expensive and on an island in Greece, probably not quick to get other than priority pigeon from Athens.
- If I am off course here, what else can I consider?
- The Amel switch also shown in the pictures is due for being replaced, but I don't want to change too much too soon unless I just pay for someone to do it all. It's not just purely $$ but knowledge too. This is part of the reason for purchasing this ark. Does anyone have schematics for this switch so I can understand the terminals please?
- The other picture showing a wire that clearly looks like it should be connected to the starter, wasn't previously. The connection had to be widened to get on the terminal, and when I did that, it sounds I think a low-pressure alarm, but it looks aftermarket. Either way, having this on or not made no difference to V or A at the battery.

Thanks in advance.

Regards

Andrew

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