Regarding replacing the Raw water pump Volvo 21141637
It looks like there is also the option of the Johnson pump VP0030DA as a replacement that is about half the price of the Volvo one. Thanks for that info Arno.
I reckon that the lip seal must have worn a slight groove in the shaft as Gerhard suggests, because 500 hours is not that much…..
So now we narrow it down to buying the new shaft kit and /or the Johnson pump if I can find it in the UK.
Given how important this is I think I will buy a new Johnson pump and a new kit for the existing Volvo, the full service kit that includes a new shaft. Then I can replace the old with the new and rebuild the old and keep it ready to go.
I am gradually building up my spare parts for the Volvo D3. As I have some extensive cruising plans.
I am a keen reader of this forum, as many of us are. It is very useful and interesting. There is lots of knowledge and experience out there and I am delighted to tap into it…
On that note, DAMPER PLATES. My engine hours are roughly 2600. I notice a gentle “clunk” when I engage forward gear. It is quite normal for most boats but I get the feeling it is slightly more pronounced than it used to be. It is not silky smooth, such that you do not even notice going into gear. What should I expect?
This is on my "keep an eye on it" list.
Does anyone know when it is typical in terms of engine hours that the damper rubbers need changing? I have done this job on a 50hp Kubota whilst the engine was out of the boat and it was not difficult. However on the Amel, I would rather leave the engine where it is but notice that since the C drive is pretty much fixed and best left alone that means sliding the engine aft. It looks like this is realistic, one could use a halyard to lift say 90% of the weight then pull the bolts from the mounts and slide it aft on the steel frame, without mucking up the adjustments on the flexible mounts. Has anyone experience doing this on the 54?