Re: Repairing holes in aft cabin trunk / deck

James Cromie

Correction:  I like to use “waxless”... not “way less” gelcoat!

Color matching is not difficult if you have patience.  The texturing might be best accomplished by someone being paid $75//hr.   
I agree with removing the life raft personally - For reasons mentioned.  
I prefer to keep my life raft in the cockpit port lazarette.  This is the most protected place to remove it, though requires a bit of strength for raising it out which is the main drawback... but for my wife or myself,  it is not an issue.  Having it out on the life rail or deck leaves it exposed to tons of water washing over your boat, and exposes crew to the greater risk of being swept off.   Also, I imagine  the lifespan of the life raft is likely to be longer in a place protected from the elements.   

I think having the deck as clear as possible improves overall safety and security.  

Sv Soteria 

On Jan 15, 2020, at 6:11 PM, James Cromie via Groups.Io <jamescromie@...> wrote:

Congratulations Elise and Kevin. Looks like a nice boat you’ve got yourselves!  For the reason you’ve described, I strive to avoid putting any new holes in the boat because of the risk of eventual water intrusion.  Amels are incredibly dry yachts in their original design.  
I had a solar arch made to replace smaller davits already in place on the stern.  These left holes in the stern that communicated with the stern lazarette.  To fill the holes, I redrilled them and chamfered inside and outside.  After carefully cleaning with acetone, I filled the holes with West System epoxy, using the UV and water protectant high density filler.  This filler allows you to achieve a peanut butter consistency.  Using a syringe, it can be inserted into the holes which have already been masked with tape.  The epoxy is easily workable and a putty knife is used to trim away any excess.  Before fully curing, remove tape.  
Lightly sand when fully cured and re apply gel coat to the areas.  I like to use way less gelcoat so that I can apply multiple coats to count our it better. You can feather it and color match by trial and error and it works out well.   Getting the same surface texture is difficult and I don’t have any tricks on that yet!    I would not keep hardware in place because it will eventually leak and corrosion will eventually set in.  

Sv Soteria #347
Las perlas, Panama 

On Jan 14, 2020, at 5:11 PM, Kevin Fox via Groups.Io <foxkm@...> wrote:

Greetings All.  My family and I are excited to be the new owners of Rascal.  I've been following this forum for over a year and am impressed by, and appreciative of, all the knowledge that Amel owners are willing to share.  I hope to get up to speed quickly and do my part to help others.

Rascal has a life raft mounted in a rack on the cabin trunk immediately aft of the mizzen mast. We’re not big fans of this location and plan to move it. One of the issues is that there are leaks around some of the bolts. There are twelve total, in groups of three. We can see the screw heads in the aft head and in the passageway just outside the aft head.
If we remove the rack we’ll need to fill the holes. I’ve seen information on how to clean out holes in fiberglass decks, including trying to remove some of the coring around the hole if wet, in preparation for filling them with thickened epoxy. Are there any tricks or special procedures for this type of repair on an Amel?
I don’t think we’ll be able to access the bottom of the fiberglass from inside the boat, so I’m guessing that we’ll need to use high viscosity (well-thickened) epoxy. Am I correct that there is space between the cabin ceiling and the fiberglass?
Another approach might be to put new, low-profile bolts in these holes and re-bed them well. Replacement bolts might also solve the issue of what to do with the holes left in the cabin ceiling. 
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!




Kevin and Elise Fox
SM2k #404 Rascal
Charleston, SC

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