Re: Windlass/Genoa Furler electrical problem, circuit breaker bad?



That entire board is removable. Look for the single black thumbscrew inside the door where the breaker is located. I have known this breaker to fail, but it is unusual.

BTW, when you have the board loose, there is plenty of wire to pull that board out so that you can operate on it. 


CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
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On Thu, Apr 2, 2020, 11:33 PM Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:
Hey Amelians! So I'm stuck here in total lockdown in Greece (really can't complain, it's amazing), so it's not a tragedy, but the circuit breaker on the windlass/genoa circuit of our SM is tripped at some point this winter (in the last few weeks sometime) and won't stay in the up/on position. Being in lockdown, getting parts is almost impossible, but I do have a spare 100A circuit breaker that would fit. Since the space to install is very limited (I can't even put a multimeter probe on the top of the breaker without pulling things out), I was hoping I could get confirmation from y'all that the circuit breaker is the most likely culprit....

SYMPTOMS: When I use the dashboard switches for windlass or genoa (or the foot switch for the windlass also), the solenoids in the cabinet click happily and strongly. But the breaker stays down, and nothing will keep it up. When I cut the 24v power at the battery banks, the circuit breaker still will not remain on. If I hold the breaker open/up and have someone activate the switches in the cockpit, still nothing but clicking from the solenoids. 

Anyone see a problem with swapping out that breaker as the fix? How often do they fail? I don't remember a broken breaker being a very common thing in my life, so just wondering before I wedge myself up there and start hammering :D 

Many thanks! 

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